Rain. Snow. Wind. It doesn’t matter, as long as you’re huddled inside a comfortable, i.e. warm and dry, ground blind. True, the turkeys may also huddle down during a downpour, but once the rain ends and Mister Sun returns, they’ll be out in the fields drying themselves off. Which is precisely where you’re going to be, having remained dry throughout the storm. NOTE – Rain is one thing; electrical storms, i.e. lightning and thunder, are something totally different, not to mention potentially dangerous. Pay close attention to the weather, including keeping tabs via radar on your cell phone, and get back to your vehicle, if the situation calls for a retreat AND you can do it safely. 

Turkey hunting kids fidget. Many adult turkey hunters fidget or otherwise find it impossible to stay still, especially in the excitement that is an on-coming gobbler. Ground blinds, then, help hide, per se, this unintentional – or, at times, intentional – movement; that is, you can get away with some fidgeting inside a blind that you couldn’t otherwise. Hosting a physically challenged hunter, e.g. an individual in a wheelchair or otherwise beset with mobility issues, can be easily done, thanks to the concealment and roomy accommodations provided by a ground blind. Guiding, for instance, as part of the National Wild Turkey Federation’s (NWTF) Wheelin’ Sportsman ( https://www.nwtf.org/programs/wheelin-sportsmen ) program? TideWe’s new OptiVue 360 Blind, with its full access door, makes getting into and out of the blind simple, quick, and easy.

If you’re a videographer or, like me, a still photographer, the use of a quality ground blind makes getting ‘up close and personal’ to wild turkeys, not to mention many other springtime species including whitetail deer, coyotes, pheasants, fox, songbirds, and other critters a relatively simple matter. Just set up your camera or cameras on the inside of the blind, two or three decoys a few steps away, and wait for the turkey action to begin. Some videographers will even post a Go-Pro camera armed with remote ON/OFF capability alongside the decoys in hopes of capturing that coveted point-of-view footage.

It’s said you can’t harvest a gobbler from the couch, and I believe that to be true. Rather, to be successful during the spring, it’s vital to be in the field, and that means when the weather’s nice and the weather’s…well, not so nice. It’s tough, I know, to sit in the open, stay comfortable, and stay still for an hour…two hours…three hours while ‘Ole Tom makes up his walnut-sized mind as to what he is or isn’t going to do. A ground blind makes the wait easier, if nothing else by making it more comfortable. Add one of TideWe’s Adjustable Swivel Hunting Chairs or, better still, the company’s Adjustable Heated Hunting Chairs, and the challenge isn’t going to be out-waiting that old longbeard, it’s going to be staying awake!

Two words here – Complete Camouflage. Head to toe. Boots, britches, belt, shirt, jacket, headnet, gloves, head cover. There is no such thing, I’ve told new turkey hunters for over 30 years now, as an insignificant detail when it comes down to hiding yourself from the very best eyes in Mother Nature.

What camouflage pattern, as there are many? That is more a matter of both personal preference and individual environment; that is, an attempt to match the foliage and colors predominantly found in your hunting area. True Timber’s innovative STRATA camouflage pattern, available on several TideWe turkey hunting products, including their new StrutBack Turkey Vest, is one pattern that might be considered not only universal geographically, but is applicable throughout the whole of the spring season from Day One to the final bell. Regardless of your camouflage design, be sure to follow the simple rule – Complete.

Does blaze orange (BO) have a place in the spring turkey woods? To me, the answer is a definite YES. I, personally, wear a blaze orange ball cap when moving through the woods. When I strike a gobbler and set up, it only takes a second or two to swap the BO cap for the camouflage one in my vest, my head net up, and I’m ready. Too, many turkey vests, including the StrutBack, sport an integral and/or detachable BO safety flag or patch on the back designed to partially cover a harvested gobbler while it’s stowed in the pack and transported out of the field. Just another safety feature, and one that makes tremendous sense.

Bulky and awkward – Some vests, by the very nature by which they’re designed, are going to prove bulky and awkward. They’re going to swing or move as you walk. They’ll have lumps here or uncomfortable bulges there. They won’t adjust to your body’s build or needs. The pockets won’t be positioned to your taste. The game bag will be too small. And on and on. That’s why, to me, it’s important to TRY a vest on, preferably with some gear in it, before you buy.

Noisy – Over the years, I’ve found some vests to be noisy. A rattle here. Fabric ‘rustles’ there. Hook ‘n loop fasteners where there should be buttons; zippers that sound as if you were ripping a mile of cotton rags. Here again, I go back to design and the need, if possible, for testing and evaluation – or at the very least review research – prior to the purchase.

Uncomfortable – As hinted at previously, some vests aren’t comfortable. The shoulder straps are too narrow and dig into your shoulders. Or they’re not sufficiently padded. Or the vest rides too high. Or too low. Or the compartments are undersized. Or they’re too few. For any of a thousand reasons, some vests just don’t work due to being uncomfortable.

Heavy and hot – And some vests are heavy in and of themselves, and this before you start loading it with another 1.837 metric tons of gear. Me, I’m looking for something relatively lightweight, perhaps three pounds, more or less, unloaded, and with plenty of ventilation for those hot afternoon hunts or long mid-morning hikes.

‘Just one more thing’ – Finally, there are those who see a turkey vest as just “one more thing” to pack into the field and maintain. Some think them redundant; others believe them unnecessary. And that very well might be the case for some hunters.

No, you don’t technically need a turkey vest to hunt — but if you want to stay organized, comfortable, and mobile in the field, it makes a huge difference.

A vest, a well-fitting, comfortable, organized vest, is certainly convenient when it comes to having your turkey hunting ‘tools’ stored neatly in a single turkey hunting ‘toolbox.’ A well-made and well-designed vest can provide comfort and support, thus keeping you in the field longer. And a vest comes in awfully handy when carrying that trophy, not to mention heavy longbeard back to the truck. Still, the fact remains and in much the same way as the camouflage pattern you wear, the shotgun you shoot, and the calls you use, a vest – even down to the elemental aspect of whether you choose to wear one or not – comes down to but two words – Personal (and) Preference.

Trail Cameras

In my case, I have a number of Trail Cameras out year round in the areas where I hunt deer and Turkeys. I check these throughout the winter to see what sort of animals are around.

Once I get to the end of March, I will move my cellular trail cameras to the areas I traditionally hunt. This allows me to scout without interfering with the turkeys.

A great time to get out looking for Turkey sign is from mid-March to the opener. You can also combine some hunting for shed antlers. Deer and Turkeys often occupy the same areas like hardwood forests and food sources such as harvested corn and bean fields. I look for Turkey sign such as tracks, droppings, areas where the ground has been dug up and feathers. One of the best indicators of a roosting site is turkey feathers and droppings. It’s always good to have a pair of binoculars with you and to try to walk along field edges so you are partially hidden.

Scouting with your ears

As we get closer to opening day, you will start to hear hens, Toms and Jakes calling. One of the best times to hear turkeys is the same time you would be hunting, early morning. Hearing hens calling and the responding gobbles can indicate where the birds are roosting. This also just adds to the excitement of hunting.

Once you find the roosts, you have a good idea of where to set up for the opener.

You can also use online mapping to find possible areas to hunt. Google Earth shows elevation, etc and their photos are fairly current.

If you have been hunting an area for a while, you have a good idea of where the turkeys will be roosting, feeding, strutting and nesting. If you are lucky, you have permission to hunt these properties. March to early April is a good time to drop by to talk to landowners to visit and confirm you still have permission to hunt. They will quite often let you know where they have seen any turkeys on their properties. This is a great time to drop off a small gift such as pepperettes made from wild game or a bottle of wine.

You can also confirm when and where you will be hunting. I regularly share my Wild Turkey meat with one landowner that owns 300 acres that I hunt on.

This is one of the most critical steps in your preparation for Turkey hunting. Your success is dependent on knowing exactly where your shot is going to be.

When patterning a shotgun, I set up 20 yards from my target. This gives me a good idea of where my pellets are going when I shoot. I use a tripod or bipod to be as accurate as possible. I will record the type of shell and shot sizes on the targets. I can then determine where I should be aiming and what shell I should use. Once I find the best combination, I will do at least one more test shot at 30 yards.

I always have my decoys set up 15 yards from my blind and probably 80% of the turkeys shot are 15 to 20 yards away.

Sighting in a crossbow or a bow, I set up for 20 yards and once I am confident the bow is sighted in properly, I will shoot at 15, 25 and 30 yards.

It’s all about being confident that your weapon will allow you to make killing shots.

Last year we had a very mild winter and as a result, I was seeing Turkeys regularly on my trail cameras in my hardwood forest. As there was little snow cover, they could look for food almost everywhere. The impact of this was that the birds did not form large flocks as they do during traditional winters.

When there is a lot of snow, the food sources are harder to find and turkeys will tend to form larger flocks close to sources of food. While the hens and last year’s poults group separate from the Toms and James, they will come together at good food sources.

Once the snow cover disappears, they will range further and in smaller flocks. They start to move to their spring roosting, feeding, and nesting areas. This is a great time to be out scouting for Turkeys.

It’s always a good idea to review the hunting regulations for your hunting area and to purchase your tags. In Ontario we are allowed to buy 2 tags for bearded Turkeys. The tags cannot be used on the same day.

I buy my tags online and print them immediately to confirm my printer is working correctly. I usually do this at the start of April. These are then put with my other Turkey hunting gear.

Once I have filled my tags, I can still assist other hunters to fill their tags.

In Ontario we are also required to complete a Wild Turkey harvest report, even if we have not shot a turkey. It’s a good idea to review what is reported so you can keep accurate records during the season.

There are all kinds of information available online to help Turkey hunters be successful. YouTube is a great place to see how to do anything from patterning your shotgun to how to butcher and cook your Wild Turkey. It’s also entertaining to watch hunts and enjoy other’s hunts. On those stormy winter days when you are stuck inside, a couple of hours of Turkey hunting shows or videos can be time well spent.

I’m no champion when it comes to blowing a duck call; however, I’d like to think I can hold my own most days. There are times, though, like during the late season, when ducks, and not only mallards but all species, seem to be somewhere between leery and downright terrified of a highball. When this appears the case, I cut back on the mallard talk – well-spaced contented quacks and very short low volume greetings only – and switch almost exclusively to a widgeon whistle. Breathy whistles, pintail trills, green-wing peeps; something other than your run-of-the-mill quacks. Do I leave my calls at home? No, sir; I just don’t reach for them first.

An older gentleman, a fellow whom I trust completely to know what he’s talking about when it comes to duck hunting, told me this. “You can run the prettiest decoys on the planet,” he said, “be that 100 or two, but if you’re not hidden well, they might as well be painted blaze orange. If you want to be successful, hide first. Decoy placement is important. Scouting reveals all the answers. But,” he continued, “if you’re not hidden, you’re not shooting.” And it’s just that simple. You. Have. To. Hide. Stand back. Look at your blind. Touch it up where necessary. Cover the dog. Cover the thermos. Pick up your empties and Little Debbie wrappers. Mediocrity is not an option here.

Odd subhead, perhaps, but what I’m talking about here is leaving your traditional field blind behind, be it a box or fenceline or layout or pop-up, wrapping yourself in a ghillie suit or poncho, and becoming part of the environment. The farther you set yourself from what ducks see as possible places of predator concealment, the more likely they are to commit to a spread. And often without hesitation. Ghillie suits are not a cure-all. They don’t work perfectly all the time; nothing does. But when ghillie suits work – Man, is it incredible. Personally, I’d recommend a full-length poncho style ghillie, as it offers more complete concealment afield. Choose a color pattern that best matches the habitat in which you spend most of your days. And remember to hide your head, your hands, and your face.

Conservatively, 95 percent of my duck hunting is done on public land; that is, land anyone can walk or boat into, set up, and spend the day. That said, I’m going on four or five years now since I’ve encountered anyone on these little parcels of public ground. Why so alone? Well, three reasons come to mind.

One, I look for seemingly insignificant parcels of public ground; a little piece here and a little chunk there that most, if not all folks ignore as being just too small to bother with. They do exist; it’s just a matter of hunting them down, figuratively speaking, and finding them. TIP – The county tax assessor’s website can be an invaluable tool when it comes to researching hunting possibilities and potential.

Secondly, and if I happen to be handed a larger piece of public land, I break that property down into smaller, hopefully less obvious portions by way of observation and letting the birds “tell me” where I need to go. On one state-owned marsh I frequent throughout the season, I’ve started setting a small spread not 60 yards from where my truck is inconspicuously parked underneath the trees. More often than not, I’ll take the short walk back with three or four greenheads that dropped into the living room-sized puddle of water I’ve discovered. The birds like it, and the few hunters that drive past ignore it.

My final ‘secret’ to late season no-pressure success is really no secret at all. Yes, the access is available to anyone; however, the access isn’t easy. First, and while this doesn’t apply to all, I’m hunting tidal marshes, which means the rise and fall, often from four to eight feet on the incoming (flood) tide. Tidal waterfowling is a challenge in and of itself, and as such, I’m leaving some of the hunting pressure behind simply due to the tides. Too, I access almost all of my public places via a lightweight 10’ Aquapod skiff, either hunting out of the ‘Pod as a modified water-going layout blind, or using the boat as a transport to get me to high ground, after which there’s a walk. Often a long walk, and not a nice walk either. My point here is I’ve found the more difficult the access, the fewer hunters I’ll have to contend with throughout the season.

October ducks? Yeah, you can get away with being a little sloppy. A little careless. A little complacent. January? Well, the time for laziness and inattentiveness to detail has long since past. And that’s the key; attention to the details. And hiding. As I’ve been told, if you’re not hiding, you’re not shooting. And that’s a fact.

Any time you have time is the best time to hunt your ground blind; however, my best success from inside has come either mid-morning – NOTE: To be more specific here, two to three hours after fly-down, once the birds have started to either wander throughout their range, or the gobblers find themselves alone with hens having gone to nest – or mid-afternoon, when activity seems to pick up. That all said, I’ve sat a blind from before daylight with success, and I’ve stayed inside until after dark and the birds have gone to roost. Much of this timing is situational; rather, the time to be in the blind depends on the hide’s location. Two hundred yards from a roost along a known travel route and it’s best to be set and ready before daylight. A strut zone opposite the roost and at the other end of the property? It might be noon before he gets there.

I’m 50/50 on the use of turkey decoys; sometimes I do, and sometimes I don’t. It all depends on the situation, the bird, the time of year, the pressure, and other variables. From a ground blind, however, I always use decoys. Tucked away inside a blind, I have the luxury of time and concealment. I’m in no hurry, and often, I’ll enjoy encounters with multiple gobblers over the course of a morning, not all of which, it’s hoped, will ignore my decoy presentation.

What sort of decoys? How many? For a friend shooting a homemade longbow and hand-carved cedar shafts, I set a dozen decoys in front of our blind. The spread, as he called it, consisted of a full strut gobbler, two jakes off to one side, and nine hens in various body postures – upright, feeding, walking, dusting/breeding – scattered around randomly, none of which were more than 10 steps from the windows. When Shaun arrowed his gobbler that morning, the tom was standing atop the now-flattened full strut decoy at five yards.

There are times when multiple decoys can do the trick in the spring, and being able to hide eight to 12 fakes in a set blind, without having to pack them from place to place throughout the morning, is quite a convenience. Still, and short of a flock of plastic birds around the hide, I’ll always set one or two – often just a pair of relaxed hens – at a distance appropriate for the shotgun or archery equipment being used.

The particulars here, i.e. modern shotgun, muzzleloader, long bow, or crossbow, begin with becoming familiar with the ground blind itself, and that prior to the first hunt. This includes your choice of seating, as well. Stool? Swivel stool? Lawn chair? Comfort is important, as you might be sitting for quite some time. Quiet, too, as metallic creaks and groans are anything but natural in the wild turkey’s world.

The only way to determine the answers to these questions is to set the chair or, if hunting with a partner, the chairs, and experiment with your weapon of choice. How far into the rear of the blind must the chairs be in order to provide sufficient room to maneuver? Can you reposition your shotgun from window to window quickly and easily, if need be? And archery equipment? Have you practiced drawing and shooting accurately from a seated position? Where does the seat need to be so that upon release, the limbs don’t contact the blind itself? All of these questions can, and should, be answered before the first sit in the blind. They’re easy; they just need to be done.

The acoustics of turkey calling from inside a ground blind, to the uninitiated, are going to be frightening, each yelp sounding as though it were coming from a 300-pound hen. Can the sounds coming from the interior of a blind be too loud? I’m sure they can, particularly if a gobbler is close; however, when calling to unseen birds from a blind, I’ve not had a problem in terms of sound quality or volume.

It does make sense that the sounds coming from a blind are much more directional than those created in a non-blind scenario; that is, sound comes from a blind, more or less, via the windows in the direction of the windows. But is this all that relevant? Given a gobbler’s extraordinary hearing, I don’t believe so. And herein lies one of the cardinal rules of turkey hunting, blind or no – Never underestimate how well a wild turkey can hear, and how precisely he can pinpoint your location down to the square foot.

To me, the biggest benefit of using a ground blind for spring gobblers isn’t so much the concealment factor, which can be excellent, but the blind’s role as an educational and opportunistic tool. Ground blinds are perfect for introducing young or inexperienced hunters to the wild turkey in as controlled and forgiving an environment as is possible. Blinds are great for those not possessing the ability to sit still, as they provide a ‘movement margin of error’ not enjoyed by those sitting in The Great Wide Open. These tools, too, offer the ideal way to get physically challenged hunters afield, particularly those confined to wheelchairs, without any inconvenience.

Love them or hate them; there’s no denying the fact that among turkey hunters, the ground blind is here and here to stay. And with good reason – They work.

Don’t laugh. I have a good friend who on more than one occasion, typically during turkey season but a time or two while duck hunting, has gotten to the field with a truckload of gear, minus his shotgun. “I forgot my gun,” he’d text me. “Again.”

This one’s simple. Put your shotgun in a case, put the case in the vehicle, and then before you leave the driveway, lay your hands on said shotgun case. Oh, and take a minute and be 100 percent sure the shotgun in question is indeed plugged or restricted to holding a maximum of three shotshells. Why this note? Twice now I’ve had the wooden plug slide out of the magazine tube of my Mossberg Model 930, unnoticed, while I was cleaning the firearm, post-hunt. Both times, I discovered this omission while afield prior to starting my hunt, and both times I was able to quickly whittle a wooden stick/plug, install said stick, and thus be in compliance with federal waterfowl regulations. My advice should this matter concern you? Double check before leaving the house.

I always make a point of checking and double-checking my ammunition supply prior to a hunt; that is, the ammunition I’ll actually be taking into the field with me. Typically I’ll have a box, 25 rounds give or take, of duck loads, which for me are HEVI-Bismuth 12 gauge 2-3/4” #5 shot. If geese are a possibility, I’ll pack a half dozen 3” HEVI-XII #2s just in case. And because I’ll shoot a 12 gauge, 16 gauge, and a 20 gauge throughout the season, I’ll make sure I have the proper ammunition for the shotgun I plan to use on any particular morning.

Cheating? Perhaps, but I’ll always have a box of 12, 16, and 20 gauge shotshells behind the seat of the truck. Always. I figure it’s better to have it and not need it than need it…well, you know the rest.

My blind bag gets packed, unpacked, dried, cleaned, and repacked dozens of times throughout the Pacific Flyway’s 107-day duck season. Why so often? One, I genuinely enjoy taking care of my gear, including all the necessities (and niceties) that go into my blind bag. Two, I like starting each hunt with clean tools, so to speak. And three, the step-by-step maintenance gives me a chance to make sure I have everything I’m going to need … and, yes, then some … once I get afield.

While I’m certain every ‘fowler’s blind bag contains something a little bit different, mine includes the following –

Shotshells

Call lanyard with calls

First aid kit

Canine kit

Toilet paper

Snacks

Hydration

Dark Energy Portable Power (recharging cell phone)

Camo compact

Brown jersey gloves

Headlamp

Multi-tool

Duck strap/bird tote

Choke tube wrench

Dog biscuits

Abigail, the black girl dog, has been working every day all summer in preparation for the opener. She still has her moments, but for the most part, she’s as ready as I am. But there’s a list for her, too. She does wear an e-collar afield, which will be fully charged. The transmitter houses a new 9-volt battery. On the list is a back-up e-collar, as well as a short field leash, the latter packed in my blind bag, the former in the truck. Also in my blind bag is a small canine first aid bundle consisting of a military suture kit, Super Glue, medical and duct tape, surgical shears, alcohol pads, gauze, and tweezers.

If it all seems excessive, and there’s that word again, let me tell you it’s not. It’s easy to forget things in the whirlwind that is pre-hunt chaos; however, a simple list – Write it down/Mark it off – can help those omissions to the barest of minimums, not to mention virtually eliminating embarrassing questions to your hunting buddies, such as – “Dude! You seen my gun?” Ugh!

I often hunt divers from a shore-based blind. When I do, I set the following using all drakes for long-distance visibility. Two long-lines anchored at each end with 12 drake bluebills placed downwind and angled outward roughly 45 degrees away from my blind. In front of the blind at 20 yards, I position 18 single-rigged drake bluebills packed tight – The Blob – to simulate active birds on a food source, e.g. fingernail clams or vegetation. Another 10 yards upwind, and I run three parallel long-lines, one above the other. The first two hold 12 drake bluebills; the third, six drake ‘cans and six drake goldeneyes, the latter two being species-specific as to decoys. Birds will work from downwind along the two angled lines, landing just outside The Blob or between the three upwind lines.

How many times have you watched your spread be ignored, only to have birds decoy to half a dozen coots 75 yards away? If you can’t beat ‘em, join ‘em. For this one, I’ll set a dozen coots tightly around a jerk cord, itself rigged with four coots. Coots are extremely active, and this set-up mimics all that motion perfectly. Off to one side, I’ll set two mallards – drake, and hen. Off to another, a pair of geese – Canadas, usually, or sometimes white-fronts. This spread’s very realistic, and presents a secure inviting setting. 

From north to south along the flyways, ducks are bombarded with all-mallard spreads, each one a mirror image of the last. Sooner or later, those veteran greenheads start to wise up. To combat this, I set what a friend of mine calls The Carnival Spread. It’s a little bit of everything – mallards, pintails – drakes for visibility – gadwall, widgeon, ringnecks, shovelers, coots, and teal. A couple snows or even a swan off to one side, again for visibility. A jerk cord and a mix of quacks, whistles, peeps, and growls round out the illusion.

If I could only set one rig for ducks, I’d set this one. It begins with 12 good-looking Canada floaters set loosely upwind. A jerk cord with a pair of water-keel green-wing teal out from the blind, and a half dozen mixed mallards, gadwall, and widgeon downwind. I want the geese upwind, as the big birds often hesitate to overfly ducks to get into a spread; however, I want the farthest Canada to still be within shooting range, say, 25 yards. The goose decoys lend visibility, and ducks will often work to goose fakes with less hesitation than they will their own kind, especially later in the season.

The best part is getting to sit back and watch the show of the dogs in action. This is something that I’ll never get sick of watching and is another reason we push ourselves to hunt more. I have become a little lazy and watching for birds constantly when in the blind because my lab Diesel does it for me. Watching him sit with his eyes looking through the skies and his ears perking up when he sees birds working lets me know it’s game time. This shows you that they are there for one reason and they aren’t going to let you down.

When hunting with dogs in the extreme cold temps that we do for birds, you must be careful. They will hunt no matter what and it can be dangerous for them. Extreme cold weather comes with extremely cold water and ice. These dogs won’t tell us they’re too cold and will just hunt, so it’s our responsibility to know. I run vest and try and get something on the floor of the boat to keep it from the cold metal floors. It can be very hard on their pads and joints. Try and do your best to know when it’s just too darn right nasty out to put them to their limits. Also hunting with ice can be very dangerous, especially if there is a current in the water. I do everything I can to never have them mess with ice when possible. They are hunting tools but treat them like one of your own and nothing bad will happen to them.

I have trained and hunted with nothing but labs over the years and are by far my favorite dog to hunt with but there are many breeds out there that do an outstanding job. Labs are very versatile dogs and will do upland, waterfowl, law enforcement, search and rescue and many other training aspects. Truly Man’s Best Friend.

A well-placed stand can make all the difference in your success during gun season. However, choosing a location goes beyond just picking a high-traffic area. Consider factors like wind direction, cover, and accessibility.

• Wind Awareness: Wisconsin’s unpredictable fall weather can quickly change wind patterns, which can carry your scent toward deer. Plan your stand location with the wind in mind, positioning yourself downwind from known bedding areas.

• Access Routes: Think about how you’ll enter and exit your stand without disturbing deer. Avoid walking through key areas like feeding or bedding spots, as this can spook deer and you may end up paying them to your neighbors.

A successful hunt requires both preparation and adaptation. By understanding deer behavior, selecting a smart stand location, and being patient, you’ll be well-equipped to make the most of Wisconsin’s gun deer season. Remember, patience and persistence are often the most critical ingredients for success.

Happy hunting, and stay safe this season!

A heated jacket is a valuable investment for anyone facing cold weather regularly. By following proper usage and maintenance guidelines, you can enjoy reliable warmth and extend your jacket's lifespan. With these tools and knowledge, you're ready to embrace outdoor activities year-round, regardless of temperature.

Remember to always prioritize safety and regular maintenance to ensure your heated jacket remains a dependable companion in cold weather conditions.

While understanding deer's color perception is important, it's only one piece of the puzzle when it comes to successful hunting. Deer rely heavily on their other senses, particularly smell and hearing, to detect potential threats or navigate their environment.

Sense of Smell

Deer have an incredibly keen sense of smell, which they use to detect predators, locate food, and even communicate with other deer. For hunters, this means that scent control is crucial. Deer can easily pick up on human scent, which can alarm them and cause them to flee the area.

To minimize scent, hunters should:

• Use scent-eliminating sprays, soaps, and detergents on their clothing and gear
• Avoid smoking or consuming strong-smelling foods before and during the hunt
• Store hunting clothes in sealed, scent-proof containers when not in use
• Hunt downwind of where deer are likely to be, as their sense of smell is less effective when the wind is blowing away from them

Hearing

In addition to their keen sense of smell, deer also have excellent hearing. They can easily detect the snapping of a twig or the rustling of leaves, which can alert them to potential danger. Hunters should take care to minimize noise while moving through the woods, as even small sounds can carry far in quiet environments.

Some strategies for reducing noise include:

• Wearing soft, quiet clothing materials like fleece or wool
• Taking slow, deliberate steps to avoid snapping twigs or crunching leaves
• Using sound to your advantage by rattling antlers or grunting to attract deer

Movement and Silhouettes

Deer are also highly sensitive to movement and can quickly spot a human silhouette in their environment. When a deer detects movement, it will often freeze in place and stare directly at the source, trying to identify whether it's a threat.

To avoid detection, hunters should:

• Minimize movement, especially when deer are in close proximity
• Use trees, bushes, or blinds to break up their silhouette
• Wear camouflage clothing that matches the surrounding environment

Successful waterfowl hunting is about more than just luck—it’s the result of careful planning, adaptability, and respect for the environment. By timing your hunts with precision, studying weather patterns, scouting effectively, and staying flexible in the field, you’ll set yourself up for consistent success.

The next time you head out to the blind, remember: preparation is everything, patience is key, and every hunt is an opportunity to learn. With these strategies in hand, you'll be better equipped to make the most of every waterfowl season. 

Light mist or drizzle is often paired with cooler temperatures, which can get deer on their feet. These conditions are some of the best for hunting, especially in the early season or during the rut. Grab your rain gear and head out, as deer are likely to be active in these conditions, and sitting through a light drizzle isn't too uncomfortable.

Light rain won't deter deer, and in fact, it may encourage older, more cautious bucks to move. The reduced light and noise make them feel more secure. In light rain, consider using a ground blind or shooting house to stay dry and comfortable while waiting for deer to move.

Prolonged, heavy rain tends to suppress deer movement, as they'll bed down in thick cover to ride out the storm. However, if you're willing to brave the elements, heavy rain combined with wind creates ideal conditions for still-hunting, as the rain will mask your scent and sound. Just as heavy snow can keep deer bedded down, a strong rainstorm will have a similar effect. However, moderate amounts of rain or snow can trigger deer movement.

Hunting in the rain comes with its own set of challenges, from tracking blood trails to staying comfortable and dry. Here are some obstacles you may face and how to overcome them:

Rain can quickly wash away blood trails, making it challenging to track a wounded deer. To combat this:

• Where legal, consider using a tracking dog, as rain can actually enhance a dog's ability to follow a scent trail.
• In the rain, take only high-percentage shots at close range to ensure a quick kill and minimize the risk of losing the deer.
• After making a shot, resist the urge to immediately follow the blood trail. Give the deer time to bed down, reducing the chances of losing it in the rain.

Invest in quiet, breathable rain gear to stay comfortable and avoid making noise that could alert deer to your presence. Keep your bow, rifle, and optics dry with covers and protectors to ensure they function properly. A screw-in tree umbrella can provide extra shelter during heavier rain, allowing you to stay dry and focused.

There are times when it's better to wait out the storm than to venture into the field. During heavy, prolonged downpours, deer will typically remain bedded down, making hunting in these conditions less productive. If a downpour is expected to pass, it might be worth waiting until after the rain subsides, when deer are likely to get up and feed.

Hunting in prolonged bad weather can wear you down physically and mentally. Constant exposure to rain can also take a toll on your gear, making future hunts less enjoyable. Remember, hunting should be enjoyable. If sitting in the rain sounds miserable to you, there's no harm in waiting for better conditions. On the other hand, if you enjoy the challenge, light rain can lead to exciting opportunities.

When hunting in the rain, it's crucial to prioritize ethical shots to ensure a quick and humane kill, especially since blood trails can disappear quickly. Always aim for the best possible shot, and if the shot isn't perfect, give the deer time to bed down before attempting to track it. Even if blood trails are washed away, a patient approach increases your chances of recovery.

While some believe rain washes away scent, wet conditions can actually enhance a deer's ability to smell you. Be particularly mindful of your approach and scent control when hunting in the rain, as deer may still detect you.

Hunting in the rain can be highly productive, especially in light rain or drizzle, but heavy downpours can suppress deer activity. With proper preparation and the right mindset, rainy-day hunts can be rewarding. If you're willing to endure the elements and adjust your strategy, hunting in the rain can lead to great results. However, if the conditions are too harsh or you're not enjoying the experience, there's no harm in waiting for clearer skies. Ultimately, the decision to hunt in the rain is a personal one based on your preferences, comfort level, and the specific conditions you face.

Another effective strategy is to place your pop-up blind near known bedding or feeding areas. By studying deer tracks, you can often deduce where these zones are located.

• Bedding Areas : Deer typically bed down in areas with thick cover, such as dense woods, brush, or tall grass, where they feel protected. Tracks leading into thick cover, especially those that appear to be entering and exiting repeatedly, can indicate a nearby bedding area. Positioning your blind along the travel routes leading in or out of these bedding areas increases your chances of catching deer during their daily movements.

• Feeding Areas : Deer tracks near food plots, agricultural fields, or natural food sources like acorns and berries are good indicators of feeding activity. If you notice fresh tracks in these areas, setting up your pop-up blind nearby can give you an excellent vantage point, especially during dawn and dusk when deer are most active.

Deer need water regularly, especially during warmer months or after physical exertion. Tracks leading to water sources such as creeks, ponds, or marshes can reveal where deer are frequently drinking. Setting a pop-up blind near these water sources can be highly effective, particularly during dry spells or in the early season when deer are drawn to water.

Keep in mind that water sources can also serve as natural funnels, guiding deer along the edges of streams or lakes. This makes them ideal places for a pop-up blind, allowing you to take advantage of predictable deer behavior.

Protein-rich aquatic creatures form a crucial part of duck diets:

• Aquatic insects and larvae
• Freshwater snails and mollusks
• Crayfish
• Small minnows
• Aquatic worms

These food sources are particularly important during breeding season but remain valuable year-round. Areas rich in invertebrates often provide consistent hunting opportunities, especially during morning and evening feeding periods.

Agricultural and natural seeds provide essential energy:

• Corn: A favorite among mallards and other puddle ducks
• Rice: Crucial in certain geographical areas
• Wheat: Both waste grain and newly sprouted
• Wild millet: Natural food source in wetland areas
• Native grass seeds: Important in natural settings

The best hunting opportunities often occur near the intersection of these food sources, where wetlands meet agricultural lands. Understanding this connection helps hunters position themselves between feeding and resting areas for maximum success.

Species like mallards, pintails, and wood ducks are the bread and butter of many hunters' seasons. These surface-feeding specialists:

• Feed primarily in water less than 18 inches deep
• Tip up, showing their distinctive tail-up posture
• Prefer seeds, aquatic plants, and shallow-water invertebrates
• Often venture into flooded fields and timber

Hunting Strategy:

• Set up in shallow waters, particularly flooded timber or agricultural fields
• Use feeding decoys (tipped-up position) in your spread
• Focus on areas with abundant surface vegetation
• Hunt early morning as birds return from overnight feeding in fields

Canvasbacks, redheads, and scaup represent a different hunting challenge. These deep-water specialists:

• Feed in waters up to 30 feet deep
• Target submerged aquatic vegetation and mollusks
• Stay closer to open water
• Move less frequently between feeding areas

Hunting Strategy:

• Use larger decoy spreads in open water
• Position yourself near deeper channels or basins
• Consider using diving duck decoys actively feeding

• Pay attention to wind direction for proper setup in open water

Species like eiders, scoters, and long-tailed ducks present unique opportunities for coastal hunters. These maritime specialists:

• Feed primarily on mollusks and crustaceans
• Prefer coastal waters and large lakes
• Often dive to significant depths for food
• Show strong site fidelity to productive feeding areas

Hunting Strategy:

• Hunt from points or islands near known shellfish beds
• Use specialized sea duck decoys
• Consider boat-based hunting setups
• Focus on tidal movements that expose food sources

Each species' feeding preference offers clues about where and when to find them. For example, knowing that mallards frequently feed in grain fields at night suggests setting up near their roosting waters at dawn. Similarly, understanding that diving ducks prefer deep-water areas with abundant mollusks helps narrow down productive hunting locations on large bodies of water.

As the landscape transforms through the seasons, ducks orchestrate their feeding patterns like musicians following nature's score. Each season brings its own menu, and successful hunters must dance to this changing rhythm.

When spring paints the wetlands with new life, ducks switch to nature's protein buffet:

• Female ducks waddle through shallow waters, snatching newly hatched insects
• Drakes guard their mates as they probe mudflats rich with invertebrates
• The marshes come alive with ducks dabbling in newly thawed waters
• Tender shoots of emerging vegetation provide vital nutrients

Hunting implications:

• Follow the insects' daily emergence patterns
• Target the shallow, sun-warmed backwaters where life first stirs
• Look for pairs feeding in secluded, vegetation-rich coves

As frost silences the marshes and ice claims the waters:

• Ducks gather in shrinking patches of open water like winter refugees
• The birds' breath steams in the cold air as they frantically feed
• Agricultural fields become vital lifelines, offering energy-rich waste grain
• Dawn and dusk see desperate feeding frenzies as birds stock up for long, cold nights

Hunting strategies:

• Find the remaining open water near feeding grounds
• Watch for birds trading between roosting and feeding areas
• Focus on protected pockets where warm springs keep water flowing
• Look for steam rising from open water on frigid mornings

During migration, the sky becomes a highway and every stopover a crucial refueling station:

• Flocks spiral down from high altitude, drawn to traditional feeding grounds
• Birds gather in staging areas like travelers at an airport
• Feeding becomes more urgent, with longer sessions and larger gatherings
• Ancient pathways between food sources become busy flight lanes

Key hunting considerations:

• Watch for northern winds that push new birds south
• Scout the historical rest stops along ancestral flyways
• Note how weather fronts concentrate birds in traditional feeding areas
• Pay attention to the seasonal progression of crop harvests

Success comes to those who read these natural signs like an ancient text, understanding that each season writes its own chapter in the story of waterfowl behavior. The hunter who aligns with these natural rhythms finds not just ducks, but a deeper connection to the ancient patterns that guide them.

Success in duck hunting is ultimately about understanding the intricate dance between waterfowl and their food sources. Like pieces of an ancient puzzle, each element we've explored – from natural feeding patterns to seasonal shifts – fits together to create a complete picture of duck behavior.

How long you plan to sit changes everything about your blind size. A quick morning hunt needs less space than an all-day sit during the rut. When you're watching a food plot from dawn to dusk, those extra square feet aren't just luxury – they're sanity savers.

A quick 2-4 hour hunt lets you get away with basic dimensions. You can work with minimal storage, a simple seat, and just enough room for essential gear. But stretch that hunt into an all-day affair, and suddenly you're playing a different game. You'll need an extra two feet of depth for comfort gear, space for your cooler and snacks, and enough room to stretch your legs without causing a ruckus. Multiple seating positions become crucial when you're logging serious hours in the blind.

Think about those late-season sits when the temperature drops. You'll need a safety zone around your heater, space for extra layers, and somewhere to stash your boots that doesn't leave them in your shooting lane.

Let's cut to the chase. You need a blind that works for your worst conditions, not your best days. Here's your straightforward decision guide:

Solo hunter using a rifle? A 4'x4' blind will work, but 5'x5' lets you hunt comfortably all season. Bow hunting solo? Start at 5'x5' minimum - don't go smaller. Teaching a kid or hunting with a partner? That 6'x6' or 6'x8' investment will pay off every single sit. And if you're planning group hunts, just go 8'x8' or larger.

Consider your hunting style and location. A food plot blind might need more space than a travel corridor setup where deer pass quickly. Think about access too - that perfect size means nothing if you can't get it to your spot or up in a tree.

The Bottom Line:
When in doubt, go bigger. An extra foot of space costs less than you think, but trying to add it later costs more than starting over. Build for December in September. Plan for the longest sits, not the shortest hunts. And always remember: no one ever packed up early because their blind had too much room.

Deer hunting, on the other hand, is a slower, more methodical sport, usually taking place in forests, fields, or open terrain. It requires patience, strategic planning, and an intimate knowledge of deer behavior.

Pros of Deer Hunting

1. Solitude and Quiet Reflection
   Many deer hunters find the solitude of the hunt to be one of its greatest rewards. Sitting quietly in the woods, waiting for a deer to appear, can be a peaceful and meditative experience, giving hunters a chance to reflect and connect with nature.

2. Challenging and Rewarding
   Deer hunting is often described as one of the most challenging types of hunting. It requires patience, skill, and a deep understanding of the animal’s habits. Successfully harvesting a deer after hours—or even days—of waiting can feel like a monumental achievement.

3. Larger Game and Meat Yield
   A single deer can provide a large amount of meat, often enough to last for months. For many hunters, the ability to harvest a big game animal and supply food for their family is one of the most satisfying aspects of the hunt.

4. Variety of Hunting Methods
   Deer hunting offers a range of different techniques, from using firearms to archery. Hunters can experiment with different methods, such as stand hunting, still hunting, or spot-and-stalk, allowing for a more personalized hunting experience.

5. Longer Hunting Seasons
   Deer hunting seasons tend to be longer than duck hunting seasons. Additionally, there are often different seasons for firearms, bows, and muzzleloaders, giving hunters multiple opportunities to go out and hunt.

Cons of Deer Hunting

1. Patience and Long Waits
   Deer hunting requires a great deal of patience. Hunters often have to sit for hours—or even days—without seeing a single deer. This slow pace can be frustrating for those who prefer a more active style of hunting.

2. Lower Success Rates
   Unlike duck hunting, where you may take home multiple birds, deer hunting typically focuses on harvesting a single animal. Many hunters may go home empty-handed after a day in the woods, which can be discouraging, especially for newer hunters.

3. Physical Demands
   Tracking, field dressing, and hauling a deer out of the woods can be physically demanding, especially in rough terrain. Older or less physically fit hunters may find this aspect of deer hunting challenging.

4. Expensive Equipment
   Deer hunting requires specialized equipment, including rifles, bows, tree stands, and scent control products. High-quality gear can be expensive, especially for hunters who are just starting out.

At this point, you might be asking yourself: "Which type of hunting is better for me?" The answer depends on your personal preferences, lifestyle, and what you're looking to get out of the hunting experience. Let’s break it down:

Duck Hunting May Be Right for You If:

• You enjoy fast-paced, action-packed hunts with frequent shooting opportunities.
• You prefer hunting with friends or in a group.
• You’re comfortable with early mornings and adverse weather conditions.
• You like the challenge of shooting moving targets and setting up decoys.

Deer Hunting May Be Right for You If:

• You enjoy solitude and the challenge of outsmarting a single, elusive animal.
• You have the patience to wait for hours or even days for the right shot.
• You prefer the reward of harvesting larger game with a substantial meat yield.
• You’re interested in experimenting with different hunting methods, like bowhunting or using a tree stand.

For a broadside deer, the ideal aiming point is just behind the front leg, slightly below the midpoint of the chest. Look for the "crease" created by the deer's shoulder as a reference. Rifle hunters can aim a bit closer to the shoulder, while bowhunters should target an inch or two behind the crease to allow for a slight margin of error.

The difference in aim points between rifle and bow hunters is minimal, but it's essential to understand the nuances. Rifle bullets can easily penetrate bones, while arrows generally need a clear path to the vitals. This is why bowhunters often aim slightly further back to avoid hitting the shoulder blade.

While the broadside shot is often considered ideal, deer don't always present themselves at perfect angles. Let's explore how to adjust your aim for different shot angles.

Quartering-Away Shots

Many hunters actually prefer quartering-away shots to broadside shots. This angle can provide a larger margin of error for hitting the lungs, and the deer is facing away, making it easier to draw your bow or shoulder your rifle without being detected.

For these shots, visualize an angle that takes your bullet or arrow through the deer's heart and lungs, continuing into its offside shoulder or just in front of it. One way to find this spot is to follow the front of the offside leg up to the body. Bowhunters should aim a few inches further back than rifle hunters on this angle.

Quartering Toward Shots

Quartering toward shots are generally not ideal for bowhunters due to the risk of hitting heavy shoulder bones. However, for rifle hunters using quality bullets, this angle can still present a good opportunity. You'll need to hold into the front-side shoulder, with your bullet exiting the middle or back of the rib cage. Be aware that this shot will damage more meat than a well-executed broadside shot.

Frontal Shots

Frontal shots can be extremely effective but offer a smaller margin of error than broadside shots. When a deer is facing directly towards you, aim between the two shoulders, just below the halfway point on its chest. This shot typically drops deer very quickly when executed properly. However, due to the narrower target area, it should only be attempted at close ranges.

Bowhunters who hunt from the ground and use rattling or decoys often encounter frontal shots. If you plan to take frontal shots with a bow, it's crucial to use heavy arrows with high FOC (Front of Center) and durable fixed-blade broadheads. Most importantly, your setup must be properly tuned, and you should be able to consistently shoot tight groups.

Bowhunting presents unique challenges compared to rifle hunting. The margin for error is smaller, and factors like elevated shooting positions and the possibility of deer "jumping the string" come into play.

There's an ongoing debate in the bowhunting community about aiming for behind the shoulder versus the v-shaped formed by the deer's shoulder bones. While both can be effective, most bowhunter education courses recommend aiming for the crease.

The shoulder shot offers a slightly larger margin for error and targets the area where the lungs are tallest and widest. It's also easier to visually identify this spot on a deer. However, some experienced bowhunters advocate for the shoulder shot, especially when using heavy arrows and fixed-blade broadheads that can penetrate shoulder bones.

Shooting from a Tree Stand

When shooting from an elevated position, you need to adjust your aim to account for the downward angle. The higher your stand and the closer the deer, the steeper this angle will be. For close shots at steep angles, aim slightly higher to ensure your arrow passes through both lungs. Practice shooting from elevated positions to master these angles.

Dealing with Deer Jumping the String

Deer often react to the sound of a bow releasing by ducking or spinning, especially at distances beyond 20 yards. While there's no foolproof formula to counter this, some general tips include:

1. Aim slightly lower on shots beyond 20 yards.
2. Be aware that larger animals and rutting bucks tend to duck less.
3. Consider ambient noise - deer are more likely to react on quiet days.
4. Try to let deer stop on their own rather than stopping them yourself.
5. When possible, set up for closer shots to minimize this issue.

Rifle hunters have more options for shot placement due to the higher energy and greater penetration of bullets compared to arrows. While the heart/lung area remains the primary target, some hunters prefer shots that drop deer more quickly. Let's explore these options and their pros and cons.

Heart/Lung Shot

This remains the most recommended shot for most hunting situations. It offers a large target area and typically results in a quick, ethical kill with minimal meat damage. However, deer may run a short distance before expiring, which can make tracking necessary.

High-Shoulder Shot

Pros:

• Can instantly drop a deer due to shock to the central nervous system
• Breaks down the shoulder, preventing the deer from running

Cons:

• Significant meat damage to the shoulder, neck, and upper backstrap
• Higher risk of missing the vital area entirely if the shot is placed too high

Head Shot

While a properly placed head shot can instantly kill a deer, it's generally not recommended for ethical and practical reasons:

• The target area is extremely small, increasing the risk of wounding
• Even a slight movement by the deer can result in a miss or worse, a jaw hit
• It destroys the trophy value for those interested in mounting

Neck Shot

Like the head shot, a neck shot can drop a deer instantly if placed correctly. However:

• The kill zone is small and mobile, making it a risky shot
• A poor hit can result in a slowly dying, hard-to-track deer
• Significant meat can be damaged or lost

For most hunters, sticking to the tried-and-true heart/lung shot is the best option. It provides the best balance of ethical killing power and meat preservation.

Q: What's the best shot placement on deer?

A: For both rifle and bow hunters, the heart/lung area (just behind the front shoulder, midway up the body) is generally considered the best shot placement. It offers a large target area and leads to a quick, ethical kill with minimal meat damage.

Q: Will a deer survive a shoulder shot?

A: While a well-placed shoulder shot with a rifle can be lethal, it's not ideal. The heavy bones in the shoulder can potentially deflect arrows or lighter bullets. If the shot isn't immediately fatal, the deer may escape and suffer. Always aim for the heart/lung area for the most ethical and effective results.

Q: Where should I shoot a deer to save the most meat?

A: The heart/lung shot not only provides the most ethical kill but also preserves the most meat. Avoid shooting too far forward (into the shoulder) or too far back (into the paunch). A well-placed shot just behind the shoulder will damage the least amount of meat while still ensuring a quick kill.

Regardless of your weapon choice, the key to ethical deer hunting is practice and patience. Understand deer anatomy, know your effective range, and wait for a clear shot at the vitals. Remember, no shot is better than a bad shot. By prioritizing shot placement, you'll not only become a more successful hunter but also a more ethical one, ensuring the conservation of the sport for future generations.

Whitetail deer are actually what biologists call "concentrate selectors." This means they're choosy eaters, selecting the most nutritious parts of a wide variety of plants. They're browsers, not grazers, and their diet can include leaves, twigs, fruits, nuts, and even mushrooms.

Understanding how a deer's nutritional needs change throughout the year can help us better manage their habitat and improve our hunting strategies.

Spring

1. High protein requirements for antler growth and fawn development

As the days grow longer and temperatures rise, bucks begin the energy-intensive process of growing new antlers. At the same time, does are in the late stages of pregnancy or beginning to nurse fawns. Both of these activities require a lot of protein. During this time, deer seek out new growth rich in protein, such as fresh forbs and the tender leaves of woody plants.

2. Preferred food sources rich in protein

Some protein-rich food sources that deer favor in spring include clover, alfalfa, and the new growth on trees and shrubs. They'll also happily munch on agricultural crops like soybeans if available.

Summer

1. Continued need for protein and increased water intake

As summer progresses, protein remains important, especially for lactating does and growing fawns. The heat also increases deer's water needs, so they often seek out succulent plants that provide both nutrition and moisture.

2. Shift towards higher carbohydrate intake as fall approaches

Towards the end of summer, deer begin to shift their diet. They start to consume more carbohydrates to build up fat reserves for the coming winter. This is when you might see them venturing more frequently into agricultural fields or oak stands as acorns begin to drop.

Fall & Winter

In both seasons, bucks prioritize high-energy, carbohydrate-rich foods to support their intense fall activities and winter survival. This dietary focus helps them maintain body condition through the harsh winter months.

While corn and soybeans dominate the agricultural landscape and deer hunters' minds, several other crops can be just as attractive, if not more so, to whitetails. These underrated agricultural crops offer excellent nutrition and can be a game-changer for both farmers and hunters.

Alfalfa

Often overlooked in favor of more common food plot options, alfalfa is a protein powerhouse that deer absolutely love. This perennial legume can provide up to 25% protein content, making it an ideal food source throughout much of the year. Deer will feed on alfalfa from spring green-up all the way through late fall, and in some cases, even into winter.

What makes alfalfa particularly valuable is its drought resistance and ability to regrow quickly after being browsed. This means it can provide a consistent food source even when other plants are struggling. For hunters, an alfalfa field can be an excellent place to set up, especially during early bow seasons when deer are patternable and still focused on feeding.

Canola

Canola, primarily grown for its oil-rich seeds, is another crop that deer find irresistible. The leaves of canola plants are highly palatable to deer, especially in the fall and winter when other food sources become scarce. Canola provides a good balance of protein and carbohydrates, helping deer maintain their body condition as they enter the breeding season and prepare for winter.

One advantage of canola is that it can withstand heavy browsing and still produce a crop, making it a win-win for both farmers and wildlife enthusiasts. Hunters who have access to canola fields often report consistent deer activity throughout the hunting season.

Milo (Grain Sorghum)

Milo, also known as grain sorghum, is a crop that's gaining popularity among deer managers. This drought-tolerant grain provides excellent nutrition for deer, especially in late summer and fall when the seedheads mature. Milo offers a good source of carbohydrates, helping deer build up fat reserves for the winter.

What sets milo apart is its ability to stand up well in harsh weather conditions. Unlike corn, which can be flattened by strong winds, milo tends to remain upright, providing accessible food even after heavy storms. This characteristic makes it an excellent late-season food source when other crops might be depleted or difficult for deer to access.

While clover and brassicas often dominate food plot discussions, there's a world of underutilized plants that can significantly enhance your deer management strategy. These overlooked options can provide excellent nutrition, attract deer at different times of the year, and offer variety in your food plot program.

Alyce Clover

Despite its name, Alyce clover isn't a true clover but a warm-season annual legume. It's highly palatable to deer and provides excellent protein content, typically ranging from 15-20%. Alyce clover thrives in the heat of summer when other food sources may be struggling, making it an invaluable addition to your food plot repertoire.

One of the advantages of Alyce clover is its ability to reseed itself, potentially reducing planting costs in subsequent years. It's also relatively drought-tolerant once established, ensuring a food source even during dry spells.

Beets

Often overshadowed by turnips in the brassica family, beets can be an excellent addition to your food plot. Deer will feed on both the leafy tops and the nutrient-rich roots. Beets are particularly valuable as a late-season food source, as the roots remain available even after the tops have been consumed or frost-killed.

Beets are high in sugar content, making them highly attractive to deer. They're also packed with nutrients, providing a good balance of carbohydrates and minerals that deer need to maintain body condition through the winter months.

Buckwheat

Buckwheat is a fast-growing, warm-season annual that can provide a quick food source for deer. It's an excellent choice for filling gaps in your food plot program or as a soil-improving crop between other plantings. Deer will browse on buckwheat throughout its growth cycle, from tender young shoots to mature seeds.

One of buckwheat's strengths is its ability to grow in poor soil conditions where other crops might struggle. It's also known for its ability to suppress weeds, which can be beneficial in preparing an area for future food plots.

Cereal Rye

While often used as a cover crop, cereal rye can be an excellent food source for deer. It's one of the most cold-tolerant cereal grains, providing green forage well into winter in many areas. Deer will feed on rye from fall through spring, making it a valuable addition to any food plot program.

Cereal rye is also known for its ability to improve soil health, making it a dual-purpose crop for land managers. Its deep root system helps prevent soil erosion and can break up compacted soils.

Cowpeas and Iron Clay Peas

These warm-season legumes are excellent sources of protein and highly attractive to deer. Both cowpeas and iron clay peas are drought-tolerant and can thrive in a variety of soil conditions. Deer will feed on the leaves throughout the growing season and consume the protein-rich pods in late summer and fall.

These peas are also nitrogen-fixers, improving soil fertility for future plantings. They can be excellent choices for areas with poor soil or as part of a rotation to improve overall soil health.

Winter Peas

Austrian winter peas and other cold-tolerant pea varieties can provide an excellent late-season food source for deer. They're high in protein and remain palatable even after frost, making them valuable for maintaining deer health through the winter months.

Winter peas can be planted in late summer or early fall, providing forage through winter and into early spring. They're often used in mixes with cereal grains like wheat or oats, creating a diverse and nutritious food plot.

While food plots and agricultural crops play a significant role in deer management, it's crucial not to overlook the importance of natural food sources. These native plants have sustained deer populations for millennia and continue to be vital components of their diet. Understanding and managing these natural food sources can greatly enhance your property's appeal to deer.

Hard Mast

When we think of hard mast, acorns often come to mind first. While acorns are indeed a crucial food source, there are other hard mast options that deserve attention:

• Chestnuts: Once a staple food source for wildlife in the eastern United States, chestnut trees were nearly wiped out by blight in the early 20th century. However, blight-resistant varieties are now available and can provide an excellent food source for deer. Chestnuts are high in carbohydrates and lower in tannins than acorns, making them highly palatable.
• Hickory Nuts: Various species of hickory trees produce nuts that are relished by deer. While not as preferred as acorns or chestnuts, hickory nuts can be an important food source, especially in years when acorn production is low.
• Beechnuts: The small, triangular nuts of the American beech tree are another favorite of whitetails. Beech trees don't produce consistently every year, but in good mast years, they can be a significant attraction for deer.

Soft Mast

Soft mast can be a critical food source, especially in late summer and early fall when deer are building up fat reserves for winter. Some underappreciated soft mast sources include:

• Persimmons: The fruits of the persimmon tree are highly sought after by deer. They typically ripen in the fall, providing a sweet, energy-rich food source just when deer need it most.
• Wild Grapes: Various species of wild grapes can be found throughout deer country. The fruit and leaves are both consumed by deer, with the fruit providing a good source of quick energy.
• Crabapples: Both native and cultivated varieties of crabapples can be excellent deer attractants. The small, tart fruits are often available into late fall and even early winter in some areas.

Trees, Shrubs, and Weeds

Many trees, shrubs, and even plants often considered "weeds" can be important food sources for deer:

• Sumac: The fuzzy fruit clusters of sumac species remain available well into winter and are often utilized by deer when other food sources are scarce.
• Greenbrier: This thorny vine is a favorite browse for deer, especially in winter. Its leaves remain green year-round in many areas, providing a source of nutrition when other plants have gone dormant.
• Pokeweed: Often considered a weed, pokeweed can be an important food source for deer. They'll consume the leaves in spring and summer and the berries in late summer and fall.
• Japanese Honeysuckle: While it's considered an invasive species in many areas, Japanese honeysuckle is highly preferred by deer. Its leaves remain green well into winter in many regions, providing a valuable food source during lean times.

Grasses and Cereal Grains

While deer are not primarily grazers, certain grasses and cereal grains can be important components of their diet:

• Native Warm-Season Grasses: Species like big bluestem, indiangrass, and switchgrass can provide both food and cover for deer. While mature grasses are not highly preferred, deer will consume new growth and seed heads.
• Wheat and Oats: These cereal grains, when left standing in agricultural fields or planted in food plots, can provide valuable nutrition through fall and winter. Deer will consume both the green leaves and the grain heads.

Now that we've explored a variety of underrated agricultural crops, food plot options, and natural food sources, it's crucial to understand why offering such diversity is beneficial for both deer and hunters.

Benefits for Deer Health and Habitat

• Nutritional Balance: Different plants provide varying nutrients. By offering a diverse array of food sources, you ensure that deer have access to a complete nutritional profile throughout the year. This balanced diet supports better overall health, improved antler growth, and increased fawn survival rates.
• Year-Round Availability: Different plants thrive and produce food at various times of the year. A diverse habitat ensures that quality food is available in all seasons, helping deer maintain good body condition even during stress periods like late winter or drought.
• Reduced Competition: With more food options available, deer can spread out across the habitat. This reduces competition at any single food source, allowing more deer to access quality nutrition.
• Ecosystem Health: A diverse plant community supports not just deer, but a wide range of wildlife species. This creates a more resilient and balanced ecosystem, which is ultimately beneficial for the deer population.

• Extended Hunting Opportunities: Different food sources become attractive at various times of the year. By offering diversity, you create multiple hotspots across your property, extending your effective hunting season.
• Predictable Patterns: Understanding which food sources are most attractive at different times allows you to predict deer movement more accurately. This knowledge can be crucial for stand placement and hunting strategy.
• Attraction Power: Unique or less common food sources can act as major deer attractants, especially if they're not widely available in neighboring areas. This can help hold deer on your property and potentially attract deer from surrounding lands.
• Adaptability: With diverse food sources, you're better prepared for the unpredictability of nature. If one food source fails due to weather or other factors, others are likely to still be available.

For many beginners, hunting on public land is the most accessible option. But it can also be intimidating—there’s more competition, and deer often behave differently due to the pressure. Learning how to navigate and hunt on public land is a crucial skill that can dramatically improve your success rate.

• Navigating Public Land : Public land can seem vast and confusing at first, but with the right resources, it becomes manageable. Use apps on your phone to identify public hunting areas and familiarize yourself with access points, trails, and legal boundaries. Most states’ Fish and Game websites also provide maps and hunting regulations for public lands.

• Public Land Scouting : The key to success on public land is thorough scouting. I use a combination of e-scouting and boots-on-the-ground scouting . Start broad by identifying potential areas with e-scouting tools, then narrow down your options by using trail cameras and personal observation. Deer behavior on public land changes as hunting pressure increases, so be ready to adapt. This approach, known as the funnel method , lets you cast a wide net early on and gradually refine your focus based on the activity you observe.

• Adaptability is Key : One of the most important lessons I’ve learned on public land is that you have to be flexible. Deer will move in response to human pressure, so don’t get too attached to one spot. Be willing to move your cameras or stands to areas with less pressure and more deer activity.

When I first started hunting, I underestimated how much time I’d need to spend not just practicing my shot or scouting the land, but also studying the regulations. These rules are crucial—they determine when, where, and how you can hunt, and they can change from season to season.

• Regulations are Key : Each state has its own hunting laws, and they can vary significantly depending on the type of game, the season, and the weapon you’re using (bow, rifle, or muzzleloader). It’s your responsibility to stay updated on these rules to avoid fines or losing your hunting privileges.

• Know the Season : Make sure you’re clear on when each hunting season begins and ends. Bow seasons often start earlier than rifle seasons, and some areas may have special regulations regarding weapon use, bag limits, or specific hunting days. Misunderstanding these rules can lead to missed opportunities or, worse, legal trouble.

As a beginner, it’s easy to think that the more gear you have, the better hunter you’ll become. But here’s the truth: fancy gear won’t make you a better hunter. What matters is your ability to use what you have effectively.

• Start with What You Have : You don’t need to buy the latest and expensive gear to be successful. Reliable, well-maintained gear is more important than having the newest model, but upgrading certain pieces of equipment as you gain experience can be beneficial.

• TideWe Gear Recommendations : When it comes time to upgrade, TideWe offers affordable, high-quality gear that’s perfect for both new and experienced hunters. Here are a few standout products:

  1. TideWe Hunting Waders

     • If you’re hunting in wet or marshy areas, waterproof waders are essential. TideWe Hunting Waders are lightweight, durable, and 100% waterproof, making them great for waterfowl hunting or navigating flooded areas. They also feature reinforced knees for added protection and come with a handwarmer pocket, which is perfect for those chilly mornings.

  2. TideWe Hunting Blind

     • A hunting blind is essential for staying hidden from your prey, especially in open fields or areas with little natural cover. TideWe Hunting Blind offers a 270-degree field of view with mesh windows that allow for easy, quiet shooting while keeping you concealed. It’s easy to set up and takedown, making it perfect for mobile hunting. The blind is also large enough to accommodate multiple hunters, so it’s great for group hunts or if you need extra space for gear.

  3. TideWe Heated Vest

     • Cold weather can ruin a hunt quickly if you’re not prepared. TideWe Heated Vest is a game-changer for staying warm in the field. It features built-in heating elements that can be adjusted to three different heat settings, keeping you comfortable during long sits in freezing conditions without the bulk of heavy layers.

  4. TideWe Hunting Backpack

     • A durable and functional backpack is a must for carrying gear, snacks, and extra layers. TideWe Hunting Backpack is designed specifically for hunters, with a 3400 cubic inch capacity and compartments for organizing all your equipment. It also has a built-in rain cover and is compatible with a hydration bladder, making it ideal for long treks in the woods.

  5. TideWe Hunting Boots

     • Comfortable, waterproof boots are essential for any hunt. TideWe Hunting Boots are insulated, making them perfect for cold-weather hunts, and they’re designed to be lightweight and durable for long hikes. The boots are also 100% waterproof, keeping your feet dry in wet or snowy conditions.

• Gradual Upgrades : You don’t need to buy everything at once. Start with the basics—perhaps a good pair of boots, some camo, and reliable trail cameras. Over time, as you gain more experience, you can start upgrading your gear where it matters most. The key is to stay within your budget while ensuring reliability. TideWe offers great options for hunters looking for quality gear without breaking the bank.

If I could go back in time, I would tell my younger self to pay much more attention to the wind and thermals. Deer rely on their sense of smell more than anything else, and if they catch your scent, your hunt is over before it starts.

• Wind Awareness : Always position yourself so the wind is in your favor, meaning it’s blowing your scent away from where the deer are likely to approach. I can’t emphasize this enough—playing the wind is one of the simplest yet most effective strategies in hunting. Even the best camo or quietest approach won’t matter if a deer smells you.

• Thermals in Mountainous Areas : If you’re hunting in hilly or mountainous terrain, thermals come into play. Thermals are air currents that typically rise in the morning as the sun heats the ground and descend in the evening as the air cools. In the morning, warm air rises, potentially carrying your scent uphill, while in the evening, cool air sinks, pushing your scent downhill. Understanding how thermals work can help you choose the right location for your stand, depending on the time of day.

• Access Routes : How you enter and exit your hunting area is almost as important as where you hunt. Many beginners make the mistake of walking through high-traffic deer areas on their way to their stand, unknowingly spooking the deer before they even get set up. Plan your route so that you avoid disturbing bedding areas and food sources. Make sure that the wind is still in your favor as you approach your spot, and be as quiet as possible.

Hunting is a game of patience and persistence, and there will be plenty of days when things don’t go your way. Learning how to deal with disappointment and manage your expectations is crucial to staying motivated and enjoying the experience as a whole.

• Dealing with Disappointment : There will be hunts where you don’t see a single deer, and that’s okay. It’s easy to get discouraged, especially when you’ve put in hours of work scouting, setting up, and waiting. But remember, every moment in the woods is a learning experience. Even if you don’t get a shot, you’re learning more about deer movement, how they react to weather conditions, and what adjustments you can make for next time.

• Shifting Your Perspective : Success in hunting isn’t just about filling your tag. It’s about improving your skills, spending time in nature, and appreciating the entire process. Each season, set small, achievable goals for yourself that go beyond harvesting a deer—whether it’s learning to read sign better, improving your accuracy, or mastering wind direction. These smaller victories will keep you motivated and always give you something to work toward.

When evaluating a new hunting property, it's crucial to approach it strategically. Ask yourself: How are other hunters accessing this property? Where are they typically hunting? What areas are they overlooking? By answering these questions, you can effectively eliminate about 90% of the property from your consideration. This leaves you with the 10% that others are overlooking - and that's where you should focus your scouting efforts.

Don't forget to consider remote or difficult-to-access areas. These might include spots across a river or out in water. Sometimes, the most productive areas are the ones that require a bit more effort to reach.

For consistent success in bagging big bucks, it's crucial to hunt near bedding areas. Deer only move so far during daylight hours, and hunting close to bedding areas increases your chances of encountering deer during legal shooting hours.

However, it's important to strike a balance. While you want to be close to bedding areas, you also need to avoid over-hunting these spots. Limit your hunts in a successful area to 1-3 times per season. Be mindful of your scent and impact on the area. Remember, once a buck smells that you're frequently in an area, it's no longer an "overlooked" spot.

When scouting for potential bedding areas, look for these key features:

• Proper cover and concealment: Deer need to feel hidden and safe.
• Escape routes: Mature bucks won't bed in a spot without a good escape plan.
• Vantage points: Deer prefer areas where they can monitor their surroundings.

For example, wet areas with brush, high spots, and little trees can be ideal. These spots allow deer to bed out of the water while being surrounded by it, providing both safety and a good vantage point.

95% of hunters go walk the middle of the woods, look for rubs or scrapes, and set up on them. If you're doing this, you're going to have the same success as 95% of the hunters. Instead, focus on those overlooked spots we discussed earlier.

To be truly successful, you need to be mobile. Hunting the same stand over and over rarely pays off. Move from spot to spot. Since September, I've hunted almost every day, but I've only hunted the same spot two or three times at most.

Remember, for deer, it's not about seeing you - it's about smelling you. They know you've been there, and they perceive it as danger. So, get in, make your kill if possible, and get out. If unsuccessful, move on to the next spot.

Take a methodical approach. If you have a 200-acre property, after eliminating the 90% where everyone hunts, you're left with about 40 acres of scattered, overlooked spots. Your strategy should be to systematically hunt each of these spots until you either kill that buck or run out of spots. Then, move on to the next property.

Finding big bucks isn't about following the crowd or sticking to traditional hunting grounds. It's about understanding deer behavior, identifying overlooked spots, and being willing to adapt your strategy. By thinking like a deer and hunting smart, you'll significantly increase your chances of bagging that trophy buck this season.

• Standard trail cameras: Store images locally on an SD card
• Cellular trail cameras: Send images directly to your phone or email
• Wireless trail cameras: Transmit images to a base station within a limited range

• Image quality: Look for cameras with at least 12MP resolution for clear, detailed photos
• Trigger speed: Faster trigger speeds (under 0.5 seconds) ensure you don't miss fast-moving animals
• Detection range: Consider how far you want the camera to detect movement (typically 50-100 feet)
• Flash type: Choose between white flash, low-glow infrared, or no-glow infrared based on your needs
• Video capability: If you want to capture animal behavior, ensure your camera can record video
• Time-lapse mode: Useful for monitoring large areas or specific timeframes

• Entry-level cameras: $50-$100, suitable for beginners or basic monitoring
• Mid-range cameras: $100-$300, offering better image quality and more features
• High-end cameras: $300+, providing top-tier image quality, fastest trigger speeds, and advanced features like cellular connectivity

Once you've chosen your trail camera, proper setup is crucial for capturing the best possible images and videos. Here's how to set up your trail camera for optimal performance:

• Look for game trails, water sources, or natural funnels where animals are likely to pass
• Choose areas with signs of animal activity such as tracks, droppings, or rubs
• Consider the sun's path to avoid backlighting or direct sunlight into the camera lens
• Aim for a clear line of sight, removing any obstructing branches or tall grass

• Mount the camera at animal height, typically 2-3 feet off the ground for deer
• Use a sturdy tree or post to minimize camera movement
• Angle the camera slightly downward to capture more of the animal's body
• Secure the camera with a lock or cable to prevent theft or tampering

• Set the correct date and time for accurate timestamps
• Choose an appropriate trigger interval (how long the camera waits between shots)
• Adjust the number of photos or video length per trigger
• Set the sensor sensitivity based on your environment and target animals
• Enable time-lapse mode for monitoring large areas or specific time periods

• Place cameras near potential blind locations to scout activity before setting up
• Use camera data to determine the best placement for new hunting blinds
• Monitor animal patterns around existing blinds to optimize your hunting strategy

• After setup, walk in front of the camera to test its trigger and field of view
• Check the first batch of images to ensure proper framing and settings
• Make adjustments as needed based on initial results

• Regularly clean the lens, sensors, and housing with a soft, dry cloth
• Remove batteries and SD cards when storing the camera for extended periods
• Store in a cool, dry place when not in use

• Check the manufacturer's website periodically for firmware updates
• Follow the provided instructions carefully when updating firmware
• Update firmware in a controlled environment to avoid interruptions

• Consider upgrading if your camera lacks features you need
• Replace if repair costs approach the price of a new camera
• Upgrade if image quality or performance significantly declines over time

Whether you're a seasoned hunter, a wildlife enthusiast, or a curious landowner, mastering the use of trail cameras can open up a new world of discovery and connection with the natural environment. So get out there, set up your cameras, and see what surprises await in the wilderness around you!

To successfully call in early season bucks, hunters should familiarize themselves with three main calling techniques: grunt calls, rattling antlers, and doe bleats. Each of these techniques serves a specific purpose and can be used in different situations to entice bucks. Grunt calls are used to mimic the vocalizations of bucks, while rattling antlers simulate the sound of two bucks sparring. Doe bleats, on the other hand, imitate the sounds of a receptive doe, which can be irresistible to a buck during the early season. By understanding when and how to use these calling techniques, hunters can significantly increase their chances of success in the field.

Early season bucks are generally more responsive to calls compared to later in the season. As they are actively seeking to establish their hierarchy and find potential mates, bucks are more curious and willing to investigate the sounds of other deer in their area. This heightened responsiveness makes the early season an ideal time to experiment with calling techniques and attract bucks to your location.

Understanding early season buck behavior is crucial for developing an effective calling strategy. Knowing that bucks are focused on establishing dominance and are more responsive to calls allows hunters to tailor their calling techniques to the situation at hand. For example, using aggressive grunt calls or intense rattling sequences can be highly effective when targeting a mature buck that is likely to respond to a challenge. On the other hand, using softer, more subtle calls may be more appropriate when trying to entice a younger, less experienced buck.

To use a grunt call effectively, hunters must first master the proper technique. Begin by taking a deep breath and then exhaling forcefully into the call, using your diaphragm to control the sound. Practice varying the intensity and duration of your grunts to mimic the different types of vocalizations bucks make. It's essential to be mindful of the volume and frequency of your calls, as overusing grunt calls can quickly become unnatural and alert bucks to your presence.

The type of grunt call you use should be based on the situation and the behavior of the buck you're targeting. Contact grunts are best used sparingly, primarily when you've spotted a buck at a distance and want to pique its curiosity. Tending grunts can be effective when you know a buck is with a doe, as it may lure the buck into investigating a potential rival. Aggressive grunts are most useful during the pre-rut and peak rut when bucks are actively seeking to establish dominance and may be more likely to respond to a challenge.

Rattling antlers is another powerful calling technique that can bring early season bucks within range. There are three main rattling techniques: light rattling, moderate rattling, and aggressive rattling. Light rattling involves gently touching and tickling the antlers together, simulating the sound of two young bucks sparring. Moderate rattling is slightly more intense, with longer, more pronounced clashes that mimic the sound of two evenly matched bucks fighting. Aggressive rattling is characterized by loud, violent clashes and the raking of the antlers on the ground, simulating a full-blown battle between two mature bucks.

The best times to rattle during the early season are typically in the morning and evening hours, when bucks are most active. Rattling can be particularly effective during the pre-rut, as bucks are becoming increasingly aggressive and territorial. It's important to pay attention to wind direction when rattling, as you want to ensure that your scent is not carried directly to the buck you're attempting to lure in.

To create a realistic rattling sequence, begin with light rattling and gradually increase the intensity over the course of 30 seconds to a minute. Incorporate brief pauses and changes in rhythm to mimic the natural ebb and flow of a real fight. Don't be afraid to get creative with your rattling sequence, using different angles and heights to simulate the movement of two bucks locked in combat. Adding in a few grunts and snort-wheezes can also help sell the realism of the fight and entice nearby bucks to investigate.

Doe bleats are a versatile calling technique that can be used throughout the early season to attract bucks. There are two main types of doe bleats: estrus bleats and lost calls. Estrus bleats are the vocalizations made by a doe when she is in heat and receptive to breeding. These bleats are longer, more drawn out, and have a distinct, almost whining quality to them. Lost calls, on the other hand, are the sounds made by a doe when she is separated from her fawn or other deer in her family group. These calls are shorter, more frequent, and have a higher pitch than estrus bleats.

Doe bleats can be an incredibly effective way to lure in early season bucks, particularly as they begin to focus more on finding potential mates. When using estrus bleats, the goal is to convince a buck that there is a receptive doe in the area, which may prompt him to investigate. Lost calls, while not directly related to breeding, can still pique a buck's curiosity and bring him within range. To use doe bleats effectively, hunters should practice reproducing the different vocalizations and experiment with various calling sequences to find what works best in their hunting area.

Doe bleats can be used throughout the early season, but they become increasingly effective as the pre-rut approaches. During the early pre-rut, bucks are beginning to search for does, and the sound of an estrus bleat can be a powerful attractant. As the rut draws closer, bucks become more aggressive and territorial, making them more likely to investigate any potential mating opportunity. Lost calls can be used at any time during the early season, as bucks may be curious enough to investigate the sound of a distressed doe, even if they are not actively seeking a mate.

One of the most powerful strategies for calling in early season bucks is to combine multiple calling techniques. Using grunt calls in conjunction with rattling can create a convincing scenario that will draw bucks in from a distance. Start by rattling to simulate a fight between two bucks, then follow up with a series of aggressive grunts to mimic one of the bucks challenging the other. This combination of sounds can be irresistible to a mature buck looking to assert his dominance.

Doe bleats can also be used in combination with other calling techniques to create a more compelling scenario. For example, hunters can use a series of estrus bleats followed by a light rattling sequence to simulate a buck pursuing a receptive doe. This can be particularly effective during the pre-rut when bucks are actively seeking out potential mates. Another strategy is to use lost calls in combination with contact grunts, creating the illusion of a buck trying to locate a distressed doe.

When combining calling techniques, it's essential to create realistic sequences that mimic natural deer behavior. Pay attention to the timing and spacing of your calls, and avoid overusing any one technique. A good rule of thumb is to wait at least 20-30 minutes between calling sequences to avoid sounding unnatural or alerting bucks to your presence. It's also important to adapt your calling strategy based on the response you receive from bucks in the area. If a particular combination of calls seems to be working, stick with it and make minor adjustments as needed.

As with any skill, successful calling requires practice and adaptability. Take the time to master the proper techniques for each type of call, and experiment with different calling sequences and strategies to find what works best in your hunting area. Be willing to adjust your approach based on the response you receive from bucks, and don't be afraid to try new things if your initial strategy isn't producing results.

When calling, it's important to use a variety of calls and be patient, as it may take time for a buck to respond. Using a hunting blind can be particularly useful when calling, as it provides concealment and allows you to stay in one spot for extended periods without being detected.

• 1 lb ground venison
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 bell pepper, diced
• 1 can kidney beans, drained and rinsed
• 1 can diced tomatoes
• 1 can tomato sauce
• 2 tbsp chili powder
• 1 tsp cumin
• Salt and pepper to taste

• Serve the venison chili hot, topped with shredded cheese, sour cream, and chopped green onions.
• Pair it with cornbread or tortilla chips for a satisfying and comforting meal.

• 1 lb ground venison
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 carrots, diced
• 1 cup frozen peas
• 1 cup beef broth
• 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tsp dried thyme
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 4 cups mashed potatoes

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
2. In a large skillet, brown the ground venison over medium heat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it cooks.
3. Add the diced onion and carrots to the skillet, and cook until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes.
4. Stir in the frozen peas, beef broth, Worcestershire sauce, thyme, salt, and pepper.
5. Transfer the venison mixture to a 9-inch baking dish, and spread the mashed potatoes evenly over the top.
6. Bake the shepherd's pie for 25-30 minutes, or until the potatoes are lightly browned and the filling is bubbly.

• Let the shepherd's pie cool for a few minutes before serving, to allow the filling to set.
• Serve with a side salad or steamed vegetables for a well-rounded meal.

• 4 bell peppers, halved and seeded
• 1 lb ground venison
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 cup cooked rice
• 1 can diced tomatoes
• 1 tsp dried basil
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
2. In a large skillet, brown the ground venison over medium heat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it cooks.
3. Add the diced onion and minced garlic to the skillet, and cook until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes.
4. Stir in the cooked rice, diced tomatoes, basil, oregano, salt, and pepper.
5. Spoon the venison mixture into the halved bell peppers, and place them in a baking dish.
6. Cover the dish with foil and bake for 30 minutes.
7. Remove the foil, sprinkle the shredded cheddar cheese over the peppers, and bake for an additional 10 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and bubbly.

• Serve the stuffed peppers hot, garnished with fresh parsley or cilantro.
• These stuffed peppers make a great standalone meal or can be paired with a light salad.

• 1 lb ground venison
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 can crushed tomatoes
• 1 tsp dried basil
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 cup ricotta cheese
• 1 egg
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 9 lasagna noodles, cooked
• 2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C).
2. In a large skillet, brown the ground venison over medium heat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it cooks.
3. Add the diced onion and minced garlic to the skillet, and cook until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes.
4. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, basil, oregano, salt, and pepper. Simmer the sauce for 10 minutes.
5. In a separate bowl, mix together the ricotta cheese, egg, and grated Parmesan cheese.
6. Spread a thin layer of the venison sauce in the bottom of a 9x13 inch baking dish. Arrange 3 lasagna noodles over the sauce.
7. Spread half of the ricotta mixture over the noodles, followed by half of the remaining venison sauce. Sprinkle 1 cup of the shredded mozzarella cheese over the sauce.
8. Repeat the layers with the remaining noodles, ricotta mixture, venison sauce, and mozzarella cheese.
9. Cover the dish with foil and bake for 25 minutes. Remove the foil and bake for an additional 25 minutes, or until the cheese is melted and bubbly.

• Allow the lasagna to cool for 10-15 minutes before serving, to ensure clean slices.
• Serve with a side salad and garlic bread for a hearty, satisfying meal.

• 1 lb ground venison
• 1 onion, diced
• 1 bell pepper, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 can tomato sauce
• 1/4 cup ketchup
• 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tbsp brown sugar
• 1 tsp chili powder
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 4-6 hamburger buns

1. In a large skillet, brown the ground venison over medium heat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it cooks.
2. Add the diced onion, bell pepper, and minced garlic to the skillet, and cook until the vegetables are softened, about 5 minutes.
3. Stir in the tomato sauce, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, brown sugar, chili powder, salt, and pepper.
4. Simmer the mixture for 10-15 minutes, or until it has thickened to your desired consistency.

• Serve the venison sloppy joe mixture on toasted hamburger buns.
• Top with sliced cheese, pickles, or coleslaw for added flavor and texture.

• 1 1/2 lbs ground venison
• 1 onion, diced
• 1 cup breadcrumbs
• 1/2 cup milk
• 2 eggs, beaten
• 1/4 cup ketchup
• 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tsp garlic powder
• 1 tsp dried thyme
• Salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
2. In a large bowl, combine the ground venison, diced onion, breadcrumbs, milk, beaten eggs, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, garlic powder, thyme, salt, and pepper. Mix until well combined.
3. Transfer the mixture to a 9x5 inch loaf pan, and shape it into a loaf.
4. Spread additional ketchup over the top of the meatloaf, if desired.
5. Bake the meatloaf for 1 hour, or until it reaches an internal temperature of 160°F (71°C).
6. Let the meatloaf rest for 10 minutes before slicing and serving.

• Serve the venison meatloaf with mashed potatoes, green beans, or your favorite side dishes.
• Leftover meatloaf makes great sandwiches the next day.

• 1 lb ground venison
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 packet taco seasoning
• 1/2 cup water
• 8-10 taco shells or tortillas
• Toppings: shredded lettuce, diced tomatoes, shredded cheese, sour cream, salsa

1. In a large skillet, brown the ground venison over medium heat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it cooks.
2. Add the diced onion and minced garlic to the skillet, and cook until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes.
3. Stir in the taco seasoning and water, and simmer the mixture for 5-10 minutes, or until the liquid has reduced and the flavors have melded together.

• Warm the taco shells or tortillas according to package instructions.
• Spoon the venison mixture into the shells or tortillas, and top with shredded lettuce, diced tomatoes, shredded cheese, sour cream, and salsa.
• Serve the tacos immediately, and enjoy!

• 1/2 lb ground venison
• 24 medium mushrooms, stems removed
• 1 onion, finely diced
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 cup breadcrumbs
• 1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 egg, beaten
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
• Salt and pepper to taste

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).
2. In a large skillet, brown the ground venison over medium heat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it cooks.
3. Add the finely diced onion and minced garlic to the skillet, and cook until the onion is softened, about 5 minutes.
4. In a bowl, combine the cooked venison mixture, breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, beaten egg, chopped parsley, salt, and pepper. Mix until well combined.
5. Spoon the venison mixture into the mushroom caps, mounding it slightly.
6. Place the stuffed mushrooms on a baking sheet, and bake for 20-25 minutes, or until the mushrooms are tender and the filling is lightly browned.

• Serve the venison stuffed mushrooms hot, as an appetizer or side dish.
• These mushrooms pair well with a crisp salad or a bold red wine.

• 1 lb ground venison
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 carrots, diced
• 2 celery stalks, diced
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 can crushed tomatoes
• 1/2 cup red wine
• 1 cup beef broth
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp dried basil
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 1 lb pasta (spaghetti, fettuccine, or your favorite pasta)

1. In a large pot or Dutch oven, brown the ground venison over medium heat, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as it cooks.
2. Add the diced onion, carrots, celery, and minced garlic to the pot, and cook until the vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes.
3. Stir in the crushed tomatoes, red wine, beef broth, oregano, basil, salt, and pepper.
4. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and let it simmer for 1-2 hours, stirring occasionally, until the sauce has thickened and the flavors have melded together.
5. While the sauce is simmering, cook the pasta according to package instructions.

• Serve the venison bolognese over the cooked pasta, garnished with grated Parmesan cheese and fresh basil leaves.
• Pair this hearty dish with a side salad and crusty bread for a complete meal.

• 1 1/2 lbs ground venison
• 1/2 cup breadcrumbs
• 1/4 cup milk
• 1 egg, beaten
• 1 onion, grated
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
• 1 tsp dried thyme
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 6-8 hamburger buns
• Toppings: lettuce, tomato, cheese, pickles, condiments

1. In a large bowl, combine the ground venison, breadcrumbs, milk, beaten egg, grated onion, minced garlic, Worcestershire sauce, thyme, salt, and pepper. Mix until well combined.
2. Divide the mixture into 6-8 equal portions, and shape each portion into a patty.
3. Preheat your grill or a large skillet over medium-high heat.
4. Cook the venison patties for 4-5 minutes per side, or until they reach an internal temperature of 160°F (71°C).

• Serve the venison burger patties on toasted hamburger buns, topped with your favorite toppings and condiments.
• Pair these burgers with sweet potato fries or a fresh coleslaw for a delicious and satisfying meal.

We hope that these 10 recipes have inspired you to experiment in the kitchen and discover new ways to enjoy ground venison. Whether you're a seasoned hunter or simply looking to try something new, incorporating venison into your meal rotation is a great way to add variety and nutrition to your diet. So, don't be afraid to get creative and put your own spin on these recipes – cooking is all about having fun and discovering new flavor combinations that you and your family will love. If you enjoyed this post and want to learn more about cooking with venison and other wild game, be sure to check out our other blog posts and resources. 

And, most importantly, we want to hear from you! Share your favorite ground venison recipes, tips, and tricks in the comments below, and let's build a community of venison lovers who can learn from and inspire each other. 

Once you have successfully harvested a deer and brought it to your field dressing location, the first step is to position the carcass correctly. Place the deer on its back, with the head slightly elevated to ensure proper drainage of blood and other fluids. This position also makes it easier to access the internal organs and make the necessary cuts.

To begin field dressing, locate the sternum (breastbone) and make a shallow cut through the skin and muscle layer, starting at the pelvis and working your way up to the sternum. Be careful not to puncture any internal organs, as this can contaminate the meat. Once you have made the initial incision, you can begin to carefully remove the entrails.

If you have harvested a male deer, the next step is to remove the reproductive organs. Carefully cut around the testicles and penis, being cautious not to puncture the bladder or intestines. Once the reproductive organs have been removed, you can proceed to the next step.

To remove the entrails, begin by cutting around the diaphragm, the thin, muscular membrane that separates the chest cavity from the abdominal cavity. Be careful not to puncture the stomach or intestines during this process. Once you have cut through the diaphragm, you can carefully remove the stomach, intestines, and other organs, taking care not to rupture any of them. If the organs are punctured, it can lead to contamination of the meat.

With the entrails removed, you can now focus on removing the lungs and heart. Reach into the chest cavity and carefully cut the connective tissue holding these organs in place. Remove the lungs and heart, being cautious not to puncture them, as this can lead to a messy and unpleasant field dressing experience.

Next, locate the windpipe and esophagus, which run from the throat down into the chest cavity. Carefully cut these tubes free from the surrounding tissue, and pull them out through the throat opening. This step helps to prevent any remnants of food or fluids from contaminating the meat.

With all the internal organs removed, it's important to drain any remaining blood from the carcass. Tilt the deer's head downward and allow the blood to drain out through the throat opening. This step helps to improve the quality of the meat and reduces the risk of spoilage.

Once you have completed the field dressing process, it's crucial to cool the carcass as quickly as possible to prevent bacterial growth and spoilage. There are several methods you can use to cool the carcass, depending on your situation and resources.

One effective method is to prop open the chest cavity using sticks or small logs, allowing air to circulate and cool the meat. You can also place the carcass in game bags and hang it in a cool, shaded area, such as a tree or a portable game hoist. If you have access to ice or cold water, you can also pack the carcass with these to help bring down the temperature rapidly.

After field dressing and cooling the carcass, it's time to transport your deer to a processing facility or your home for further butchering. When transporting the deer, it's essential to keep the meat cool and protected from contamination.

If possible, secure the carcass in a sturdy game bag or wrap it in a clean tarp before placing it in your vehicle. If you have access to a cooler or ice, you can pack the carcass with these to maintain a low temperature during transport. Be sure to check your local regulations regarding the transportation of game animals, as there may be specific requirements or guidelines you need to follow.

Field dressing a deer is a fundamental skill for any hunter, and with practice, it can become a smooth and efficient process. By following the steps outlined in this guide and using the right tools and techniques, you can ensure that your harvested deer is properly cared for and ready for transport and processing.

Duck hunting often involves exposure to cold, wet conditions, so it's essential to prepare your kids for the elements. Start by choosing appropriate clothing for the weather, such as insulated jackets, moisture-wicking base layers, and waterproof outer layers.

Pay special attention to selecting properly fitting waders for your kids. Waders are an essential piece of equipment for duck hunting, as they keep the hunter dry and warm while standing in water or traversing muddy terrain. Consider the following when choosing waders for your child:

1. Importance of wader fit for comfort and safety: Waders that are too large can lead to tripping or filling with water, while waders that are too small can restrict movement and cause discomfort. Ensure that your child's waders fit snugly but allow room for layering underneath.

2. Options for youth-sized waders: Many outdoor gear manufacturers like Tidewe offer youth-sized waders designed specifically for children. Look for waders with adjustable suspenders and belt loops to ensure a secure fit as your child grows.

3. Wader care and maintenance tips: Teach your kids how to properly care for their waders to extend their lifespan. This includes rinsing off mud and debris after each use, hanging them to dry, and storing them in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

In addition to waders, pack extra layers, gloves, and hats to keep your kids warm and comfortable throughout the hunt. Don't forget to bring snacks, water, and hand warmers to keep their energy levels up and their hands toasty warm.

When planning a duck hunting trip with your kids, consider their age, physical abilities, and attention span. Choose hunting locations that offer easier access and shorter walks to the blind or hunting spot. This will help prevent fatigue and keep your kids engaged throughout the hunt.

Plan shorter hunts that align with your child's attention span and energy levels. It's better to have a successful, enjoyable short hunt than to push your kids beyond their limits and risk turning them off from the experience altogether.

Consider hunting from a blind or boat to provide added comfort and concealment. Blinds offer a sheltered space where kids can stay warm, dry, and hidden from the ducks' view. Hunting from a boat can also be a great option, as it allows for more mobility and the opportunity to explore different hunting locations.

As a parent and hunting mentor, it's essential to be a positive role model for your children. Demonstrate proper hunting ethics and sportsmanship, and emphasize the importance of respect for the environment and the animals you hunt.

Teach your kids to follow hunting regulations, such as bag limits and species restrictions, and to always obtain the necessary licenses and permits. Encourage them to practice good stewardship by properly disposing of trash and minimizing their impact on the environment.

Celebrate your successes together, whether it's a successful harvest or simply enjoying a beautiful sunrise in the duck blind. At the same time, use any failures or missed opportunities as teachable moments, emphasizing the importance of patience, perseverance, and learning from experience.

By following these five tips, you can create a successful and enjoyable duck hunting experience for your children. By sharing your love for the outdoors and waterfowl conservation, you can help your kids develop a lifelong passion for duck hunting and create lasting memories together as a family.

When setting up your hunting blind, consider the importance of shot placement for taxidermy. A well-placed shot not only ensures a quick, ethical harvest but also minimizes damage to the hide, head, and other areas essential for mounting. Aim for vital organs while avoiding the shoulder, neck, and head whenever possible. By prioritizing shot placement, you'll provide your taxidermist with the best possible materials to work with, resulting in a more lifelike and visually appealing mount.

When placing your hunting blind, take into account the shooting angles and distances that will be available to you. Position your blind to maximize your chances of a clean, broadside shot at a reasonable distance. Consider the terrain, wind direction, and natural animal behaviors in the area to ensure that your blind is in an optimal location. Remember that your shooting angle and distance can affect the quality of your shot and, subsequently, the quality of your taxidermy mount.

To ensure the best possible shot placement, practice shooting positions from your blind prior to the hunt. Familiarize yourself with the available shooting windows, and test various positions to find the most comfortable and stable ones. Practice with your hunting gear, including your weapon, to build muscle memory and increase your accuracy. By dedicating time to practice, you'll be better prepared to make a clean, ethical shot when the moment arrives, increasing your chances of a successful harvest and a high-quality taxidermy mount.

Once you've harvested your trophy, the next crucial step is properly field dressing and caping the animal. This process involves skinning the animal and removing the head and hide in a way that preserves the quality of the materials for taxidermy. Proper field dressing and caping techniques are essential to prevent damage to the hide, ensure optimal preservation, and provide your taxidermist with the best possible materials to work with.

1. Shoulder Mount: Preserving Extra Hide for Optimal Flexibility

When skinning an animal for a shoulder mount, it's important to leave extra hide around the neck, chest, and shoulders. This additional hide gives your taxidermist more flexibility when positioning the mount and ensures a more natural, lifelike appearance. Begin your incision at the base of the skull, and continue down the back of the neck, stopping at the shoulder blades. From there, make incisions along the back of each front leg, and carefully skin the animal, leaving ample hide for your taxidermist to work with.

2. Full Body Mount: Comprehensive Skinning Requirements

If you plan to have a full-body mount created, your skinning method will need to be more comprehensive. Start by making an incision from the base of the skull, along the spine, and down to the tail. Make additional incisions along the back of each leg, and carefully skin the entire animal. Be sure to leave the ears, nose, and lips attached to the hide, as these delicate areas require special attention from your taxidermist.

3. Safely Removing the Head from the Carcass for Taxidermy

When removing the head from the carcass, make a clean cut through the neck, as close to the skull as possible. This will provide your taxidermist with ample hide to work with when creating the mount. If you're unsure about your ability to make a clean cut, consider leaving more of the neck attached to the head, as your taxidermist can always trim away excess material.

In most cases, it's best to leave the skin attached to the skull during transport. This method helps protect the delicate areas around the eyes, nose, and mouth, which are critical for creating a lifelike mount. By leaving the skin attached, you also reduce the risk of damage or loss of these important parts during transportation.

If you're caping and field dressing your trophy without the assistance of a guide, it's essential to take your time and follow best practices. Watch instructional videos, consult with experienced hunters, and consider practicing on a smaller animal before attempting to cape your trophy. Remember to keep your knife sharp, make clean cuts, and avoid puncturing the hide whenever possible. If you're unsure about any aspect of the process, don't hesitate to reach out to your taxidermist for guidance.

Once you've field dressed and caped your trophy, it's crucial to protect the head and cape during transport. Use a clean, breathable game bag to cover the head and cape, ensuring that it stays cool and dry. Game bags help prevent contamination from dirt, debris, and insects while allowing air to circulate, minimizing the risk of bacterial growth and deterioration.

If you plan to transport your trophy over a longer distance or period, you'll need to take additional steps to ensure its preservation. In these cases, a more comprehensive caping technique may be necessary. This involves completely removing the hide from the skull and salt-curing it to prevent bacterial growth and decay. Consult with your taxidermist for specific instructions on caping for long-distance transport.

When transporting your trophy over longer distances, cold storage is crucial to prevent spoilage. If possible, place the caped hide and skull in a cooler with ice packs, ensuring that the hide does not come into direct contact with the ice. This will help maintain a cool temperature and prevent moisture damage. If you're unable to keep the hide and skull cool during transport, consider freezing them until you can deliver the trophy to your taxidermist.

Short-Term Storage Solutions for Your Trophy

If you cannot deliver your trophy to the taxidermist immediately, proper short-term storage is essential. One of the best options for short-term storage is using a cooler. Place the caped hide and skull in a cooler with ice packs, ensuring that the hide does not come into direct contact with the ice. This will help maintain a cool temperature and prevent bacterial growth. Check the cooler regularly to ensure that the ice packs are still cold and replace them as needed.

When using a cooler for short-term storage, it's crucial to prevent moisture damage to the hide. Avoid placing the hide in direct contact with ice, as this can cause freezer burn and damage the delicate tissues. Instead, use ice packs or place a barrier, such as a plastic bag or game bag, between the ice and the hide. This will help maintain a cool temperature without exposing the hide to excessive moisture.

Long-Term Storage Methods for Extended Periods

If you need to store your trophy for an extended period before delivering it to the taxidermist, proper long-term storage techniques are critical. Begin by thoroughly cleaning the hide, removing any excess fat, meat, or debris. Once cleaned, salt the hide liberally, ensuring that all areas are covered. After salting, roll the hide tightly, with the fur side facing inward. This rolling technique helps prevent the hide from drying out and minimizes the risk of hair slippage.

After rolling the hide, place it in a plastic bag and remove as much air as possible before sealing. This airtight wrapping helps prevent freezer burn and protects the hide from moisture damage. If you have access to a vacuum sealer, this can be an ideal tool for removing air and creating a tight seal around the hide.

In addition to using plastic bags, it's essential to remove as much air as possible from the packaging. Excess air can lead to freezer burn and damage the hide over time. Use a vacuum sealer, if available, or manually remove air by compressing the bag before sealing. This will help ensure optimal long-term storage and preserve the quality of your trophy.

If you need to store your trophy for an extended period, a deep freezer is an excellent investment. Deep freezers maintain a consistent, low temperature, which is ideal for preserving the quality of your hide and skull. When using a deep freezer, be sure to place your wrapped trophy in a location where it will not be disturbed or compressed by other items.

To ensure the best possible taxidermy results, it's crucial to deliver your trophy to the taxidermist in a timely manner. If you can deliver your trophy within a few days of the harvest, your taxidermist will have the freshest possible materials to work with. However, if you need to store your trophy for an extended period, following proper storage techniques and delivering it to the taxidermist as soon as possible will help preserve the quality of your mount.

1. How long can I store my trophy before delivering it to the taxidermist?

Ideally, you should deliver your trophy to the taxidermist as soon as possible after your hunt. If you can deliver it within a few days, your taxidermist will have the freshest materials to work with. However, if you need to store your trophy for an extended period, proper storage techniques can help preserve its quality. When stored correctly, your trophy can remain in good condition for several months.

2. What should I do if I can't deliver my trophy to the taxidermist right away?

If you cannot deliver your trophy to the taxidermist immediately, proper storage is crucial. For short-term storage, place the caped hide and skull in a cooler with ice packs, ensuring that the hide doesn't come into direct contact with the ice. For long-term storage, thoroughly clean and salt the hide, roll it tightly with the fur side inward, and place it in an airtight plastic bag. Remove as much air as possible before sealing and store in a deep freezer.

3. How much does taxidermy typically cost?

Taxidermy costs vary depending on the species, mount style, and taxidermist. On average, a shoulder mount for a deer or antelope can cost between $500 to $800, while larger animals like elk or moose can range from $1,000 to $2,500 or more. Full-body mounts and more complex designs will typically cost more. It's essential to discuss pricing and payment terms with your chosen taxidermist before your hunt.

4. How long does the taxidermy process usually take?

The taxidermy process can take several months, depending on the taxidermist's workload and the complexity of the mount. On average, you can expect to wait between 6 to 12 months for your completed mount. However, some taxidermists may have longer or shorter turnaround times. Be sure to discuss the expected timeline with your taxidermist before your hunt and factor in any shipping time if necessary.

5. What can I do to ensure the best possible taxidermy result?

To ensure the best possible taxidermy result, proper planning and communication are key. Choose a reputable, experienced taxidermist who specializes in the species you'll be hunting. Communicate your expectations and preferences clearly with your taxidermist and guide before your hunt. Practice proper shot placement, field dressing, and caping techniques to preserve the quality of your trophy. Use appropriate transportation and storage methods, and deliver your trophy to the taxidermist in a timely manner, following their specific instructions.

One of the most important calls to master is the quack. This versatile call can be used in various situations, such as the hail call to grab the attention of distant ducks, the greeting call to welcome ducks to your decoy spread, the comeback call to entice ducks that have passed by to return, and the lonesome hen call to mimic a single duck looking for company.

As you become more comfortable with the basic techniques, you can move on to advanced duck calling. Combining calls to create realistic sequences can help convince ducks that your decoy spread is a safe place to land. Adapting your calls to different species, such as mallards, teal, and gadwall, can also increase your success rate. Adjusting your volume and tone based on hunting situations, such as calling softly in close quarters or loudly on windy days, is another important skill to develop. Using calls in conjunction with decoys can create a more convincing setup.

While developing your duck calling skills, it's important to avoid common mistakes. Overusing calls can cause ducks to become wary and avoid your decoy spread. Calling too loudly or aggressively can also scare ducks away. Using the wrong call for the situation, such as a hail call when ducks are already approaching your decoys, can be counterproductive. Finally, neglecting to adapt to changing conditions, such as weather or the behavior of the ducks, can limit your success.

Before you head out on your duck hunting adventure, it's crucial to have the right gear. TideWe waders are an excellent choice for any waterfowl hunter looking for durability, comfort, and reliability.
• TideWe waders are made from high-quality, waterproof, and breathable materials that keep you dry and comfortable in even the harshest conditions.
• They feature reinforced knees and seats for added durability, ensuring your waders can withstand the rigors of the hunt.
• With a range of sizes and styles available, TideWe has a pair of waders to fit every hunter's needs.
Investing in a quality pair of waders like those from TideWe will help you stay focused on perfecting your duck calling techniques and bagging more birds.

Duck calling is an essential skill for any waterfowler, and the fall season presents unique challenges and opportunities for callers. As ducks become increasingly wary and selective throughout the season, the ability to communicate effectively with your quarry can make all the difference.

Duck calling serves several key functions in the field. First and foremost, it helps to grab the attention of passing ducks and entice them to take a closer look at your decoy spread. Effective calling can also help to calm wary birds and convince them to commit to your setup. Finally, calling can be used to direct the movement of ducks within range, giving you optimal shot opportunities.

Basic duck calling techniques:
To become a proficient duck caller, start by mastering the basic sounds that make up the duck language. These include the quack, which is the foundation of most duck vocalizations, as well as the feed call, greeting call, and hail call. Practice these sounds until you can produce them consistently and convincingly.

Tips for mastering specific calls:
As you progress in your calling abilities, focus on mastering specific calls for different situations. The hail call, for example, is a loud, aggressive call used to grab the attention of distant ducks. The feeding call, on the other hand, is a softer, more conversational call used to mimic the sounds of content, feeding ducks.

To take your calling to the next level, consider investing in a high-quality duck call that matches your skill level and hunting style. Attend calling seminars or workshops to learn from experienced callers, and practice regularly to develop muscle memory and consistency.

Decoys are an essential tool for any duck hunter, serving to attract and distract live birds while also concealing the hunter's presence. In the fall, when ducks are often more decoy-shy and wary, the placement and arrangement of your decoys can be the difference between a successful hunt and a frustrating one.

Proper decoy placement is crucial for creating a realistic and inviting scene for passing ducks. When arranging your decoys, consider factors like wind direction, water depth, and the natural behavior of the species you're targeting. Ducks will typically land into the wind, so position your decoys accordingly.

There are countless decoy spreads to choose from, each designed for specific hunting scenarios. For example, a classic "J" spread is effective for hunting smaller groups of ducks in shallow water, while a large, open-water spread may be more appropriate for targeting divers or attracting high-flying flocks.

Tips for creating realistic and effective decoy setups:

To create a convincing decoy spread, pay attention to the details. Mix different species and poses of decoys to mimic the natural diversity of a real duck flock. Use decoy motion systems like jerk rigs or spinning-wing decoys to add lifelike movement to your spread. And don't forget the importance of decoy maintenance – clean, well-maintained decoys will be far more effective than dirty or damaged ones.

When it comes to decoy numbers, more is not always better. In many cases, a smaller, strategically placed spread can be just as effective as a large one. Experiment with different setups and adapt your spread to the conditions at hand.

Concealment is a critical aspect of successful duck hunting, especially during the fall season when ducks are often more wary and attuned to potential threats. Blending in with your surroundings not only helps you avoid detection by sharp-eyed waterfowl but also allows you to observe duck behavior and movement patterns more effectively.

Ducks have excellent vision and a keen ability to detect movement and color contrasts in their environment. Even the slightest hint of an out-of-place shape or color can cause them to flare or avoid your hunting area altogether. By prioritizing concealment, you'll be able to get closer to ducks and increase your chances of success.

In addition to wearing the right camouflage, it's essential to ensure that your hunting blind or boat blends in with its surroundings. Use natural vegetation like grass, reeds, or branches to break up the outline and texture of your blind or boat. Pay attention to the specific plant species in your hunting area, and try to match them as closely as possible.

When brushing in your blind or boat, remember to create a natural, random pattern that mimics the surrounding vegetation. Avoid creating straight lines or unnatural clumps that may draw the attention of passing ducks. And don't forget to cover your blind or boat from all angles, including the top and sides.

In addition to visual concealment, also consider the importance of minimizing movement and noise while hunting. Ducks are highly attuned to sudden movements and unnatural sounds, so be sure to keep your movements slow and deliberate, and avoid unnecessary noise like talking or rustling gear.

To consistently bag ducks in the fall, it's essential to have a deep understanding of the behavior and habitat preferences of the species you're targeting. 

Common duck species and their unique behaviors

Each duck species has its own set of behaviors and quirks that can impact how and where you hunt them. Mallards, for example, are known for their adaptability and willingness to use a wide range of habitats, from shallow marshes to flooded agricultural fields. Pintails, on the other hand, tend to be more wary and prefer open, shallow wetlands with sparse vegetation.

Preferred habitats for different species

In addition to species-specific behaviors, it's important to understand the habitat preferences of different ducks. Dabbling ducks like teal, gadwall, and shovelers favor shallow, vegetated wetlands where they can tip up and feed on aquatic plants and invertebrates. Diving ducks like scaup, canvasbacks, and redheads, on the other hand, prefer deeper, more open water where they can dive for mollusks, crustaceans, and other prey.

Adapting your hunting tactics based on species and habitat

Armed with a knowledge of duck behavior and habitat preferences, you can adapt your hunting tactics to better target specific species in specific environments. For example, when hunting mallards in flooded timber, you may want to use a heavily wooded decoy spread and focus on calling to attract birds down through the canopy. When targeting pintails in open marshes, on the other hand, you may want to use a more spread-out decoy setup and rely on long-distance spotting to locate birds.

As the fall season progresses, pay attention to changes in duck behavior and habitat use. As temperatures drop and food sources shift, ducks may change their daily routines and preferred feeding and roosting areas. By staying attuned to these changes and adapting your strategies accordingly, you'll be well-positioned for success throughout the season.

Weather plays a critical role in duck behavior and movement patterns, especially during the fall season when conditions can change rapidly.

Ducks are highly sensitive to changes in weather, and different conditions can trigger different behaviors. For example, a sudden drop in temperature or the arrival of a cold front can spur ducks to feed more actively and move to new areas in search of food and shelter. High winds can cause ducks to seek out protected areas like sheltered bays or lee shorelines, while heavy rain or snow can cause them to hunker down and limit their movements.

While there's no single "perfect" weather condition for duck hunting, certain scenarios tend to be more productive than others. In general, the best conditions for fall duck hunting include:

• Cloudy or overcast skies, which reduce glare and make decoys more visible
• Moderate to strong winds, which encourage ducks to fly lower and seek out protected areas
• Falling barometric pressure, which often precedes a cold front and can stimulate duck activity
• Cooler temperatures, which spur ducks to feed more actively and move to new areas

To make the most of different weather conditions, be prepared to adjust your hunting tactics accordingly. For example, on calm, bluebird days, you may need to rely more heavily on calling and decoy placement to attract ducks, as they may be less likely to move on their own. On windy days, on the other hand, you may want to position your decoys and blind to take advantage of the wind direction and any available cover.

In addition to adjusting your tactics, it's also important to be prepared for changing weather conditions in terms of your gear and clothing. Make sure to dress in layers and bring appropriate outerwear for the forecasted conditions, as well as any necessary safety gear like a waterproof radio or GPS device.

Successful duck hunting requires more than just a keen understanding of duck behavior and habitat – it also demands proficiency with your gear. From your shotgun and ammunition to your waders and blind bag, every piece of equipment plays a critical role in your success and safety in the field.

When selecting a shotgun for duck hunting, look for a reliable, durable model with a smooth action and a comfortable fit. Most hunters prefer 12-gauge shotguns for their versatility and effectiveness, but 20-gauge and even 28-gauge models can be effective for smaller-framed hunters or those who prefer a lighter gun.

In terms of ammunition, choose a load that balances pattern density, velocity, and knockdown power. Non-toxic shot like steel, bismuth, or tungsten is required for waterfowl hunting, and different shot sizes and velocities may be more effective for different species and ranges.

To ensure optimal performance in the field, it's essential to pattern your shotgun and ammunition combination before the season begins. Patterning involves shooting at a large paper or cardboard target at different ranges to evaluate the density and uniformity of your shotgun's pattern.

When patterning your gun, experiment with different choke constrictions, shot sizes, and brands of ammunition to find the combination that provides the best performance for your hunting style and typical shooting distances. Keep detailed records of your patterning results, and don't be afraid to make adjustments as needed.

Proper maintenance and cleaning of your hunting gear is essential for ensuring reliable performance and longevity in the field. After each hunt, take the time to thoroughly clean and dry your shotgun, waders, and other equipment, paying special attention to any areas that may have been exposed to moisture, dirt, or debris.

In addition to regular cleaning, periodically inspect your gear for signs of wear or damage, and make any necessary repairs or replacements before the next hunting season. By staying on top of maintenance and addressing any issues promptly, you'll be able to rely on your gear when it matters most.

A well-trained retriever can be an invaluable asset in the duck blind, not only for recovering downed birds but also for adding an extra element of enjoyment and camaraderie to your hunting experience. Whether you're hunting with your own dog or a friend's, understanding the basics of retriever training and use can help you make the most of this valuable hunting partner.

Hunting with a retriever offers numerous benefits, both practical and intangible. On a practical level, a well-trained retriever can help you locate and recover downed birds quickly and efficiently, reducing the risk of lost or crippled ducks. This is especially important in the fall when vegetation is often thick and water temperatures are cooler.

In addition to their retrieving abilities, dogs can also add an extra set of eyes and ears in the blind, alerting you to incoming ducks or other wildlife. And on a more personal level, hunting with a retriever can deepen your connection to the outdoors and provide a sense of companionship and shared purpose in the field.

Training a reliable hunting retriever takes time, patience, and consistency. While the specifics of training will vary depending on the individual dog and the training program you follow, there are some basic techniques that all retriever owners should master:

• Obedience training: Teaching your dog basic commands like sit, stay, come, and heel is essential for maintaining control and safety in the field.
• Marking and memory drills: These exercises help your dog develop the ability to mark the location of fallen birds and remember multiple marks in succession.
• Blind retrieves: Teaching your dog to take hand signals and retrieve birds that they did not see fall is a critical skill for hunting in thick cover or over long distances.
• Water work: Introducing your dog to water retrieves and teaching them to handle various water conditions and distances is important for any waterfowl retriever.

To effectively integrate your retriever into your hunting strategy, it's important to understand their strengths and limitations, as well as your own role as a handler. Some key considerations include:

• Positioning: Place your retriever in a location that allows them to mark falling birds and retrieve them efficiently, without interfering with your shooting or the movement of other hunters.
• Communication: Use clear, consistent commands and signals to direct your retriever, and be prepared to guide them through any challenges or distractions that may arise.
• Patience: Allow your retriever to work at their own pace, and resist the urge to rush or pressure them. Trust in their training and instincts, and provide guidance and support as needed.

Consistent shooting practice is essential for any duck hunter looking to improve their skills and make the most of their time in the field. Whether you're a seasoned veteran or a new hunter, regular practice can help you develop the muscle memory, instincts, and confidence needed to make clean, effective shots on fast-moving birds.

While the thrill of the hunt and the excitement of success are important parts of the duck hunting experience, the most critical considerations for any hunter should always be safety and legality. By prioritizing safe practices and adhering to all relevant regulations and guidelines, you can ensure that your hunting activities are both enjoyable and responsible.

Most importantly, never forget why you started hunting in the first place – the love of the outdoors, the thrill of the pursuit, and the satisfaction of providing for yourself and your family. By staying true to these core values and consistently working to improve your skills and knowledge, you'll be able to build a lifetime of rich and rewarding experiences in the duck blind.